Baby Jane Holzer, that is. She was one of the inspirations for John Galliano's very pretty fall collection for Christian Dior, which skillfully mixed glamour and restraint. The big hair and ladylike accessories were all part of the fun. Here, a look that would have delighted Holzer in the Sixties, a flared fur coat, worn with short leather gloves and a top-handle bag.
Christian Dior: And here's to you, Mr. Galliano — for proving so delightfully what many showgoers this season suspected, hoped for, longed for, that pared-down and pretty (read: wearable) has more range than a sober sheath. Of course, in John Galliano's world, range doesn't materialize out of nowhere. "I'm always looking for heroines who make me dream," he said. For fall, he found such gals in Baby Jane Holzer, Raquel Welch and the most shameless future mother-in-law ever, Mrs. Robinson, whose anthem played throughout much of his lineup. They inspired a Christian Dior collection Galliano called "pure glamour," one that worked the joyful, high-voltage side of restraint to near perfection.
Suits? Dior's got them in bright orange, red, lime green, purple and fuchsia in couture-worthy silks and exotic skins, often worn under the shade of Stephen Jones' giddily demonstrative hats. And just when you wondered what a girl's supposed to don for quieter moments, out came a perfect double-breasted tweed coat and neat patent-trimmed suit in an oversize glen plaid. There were furs like your momma had, only chicer, and simply cut dresses, the better to show off a splashy print, flashy embroideries or a flurry of orange feathers tickling the knees. As for evening, guess what? The Oscars notwithstanding, it turns out that it's not illegal to design or wear a gown in a color other than red.
Retro? Yes, in a fabulously big hair, thick eyelash, matchy-match accessories kind of way. That part's the dream that gets Galliano going. The reality — polished, upbeat clothes for women who don't sleep in jumbo rollers under a net — is even better.
Photos By: Delphine Achard, Stephane Feugere and GiovanniGiannoni
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast