The story of Barneys New York and Proenza Schouler is something of a fashion storybook romance, its lore undoubtedly stoking the passions of design students the world over. Especially at Parsons The New School for Design, where Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were still students presenting their senior thesis collection when Barneys bought the whole thing off the student runway show, thus securing bragging rights to the discovery of the designers, who were named Womenswear Designer of the Year at the CFDA Awards Monday night, their fifth Trova. “We didn’t prepare at all,” said McCollough on the phone the next day. “Last year we went with a speech, and there’s nothing more depressing than going home at the end of the night with a speech in your pocket that you didn’t get to use.”
To celebrate their 10-year anniversary, Barneys and Proenza have worked up a capsule collection, titled “Proenza Schouler: First Collection,” of pieces from McCollough and Hernandez’s first runway show for fall 2003. (The thesis collection was actually 11 years ago — minor detail.) The 19-piece lineup will be available at Barneys’ Madison Avenue and Los Angeles stores starting Friday and includes a white cracked leather jacket with a raccoon fur collar; a suede trench and matching pants; a simple T and slouchy trousers and, perhaps the most memorable item from the show, a silver sequined bustier top that became one of their signatures for a few seasons running. Prices range from $850 to $5,650.
“They don’t look like they’re from 10 years ago, right?” asked McCollough. He was correct — the collection holds up to today’s standards, if it’s not what fashion followers would expect from Proenza in its current designs. “Our first collection almost reminded me of like one of our pre-collections now,” said McCollough, adding that some small adjustments and refits were required to take the looks to 2013. “We did all of the original patterns back then. We weren’t the best patternmakers, so they definitely needed some tweaking.” RELATED STORY: Proenza Schouler Resort 2014 >>
Barneys is putting a lot of promotional muscle behind the project, dedicating all the Madison Avenue windows to a Proenza Schouler retrospective, which will be unveiled this weekend, and for the first time opening a dedicated private shopping site that allows select barneys.com customers to pre-shop Wednesday and Thursday, with a print and digital campaign as well. “We anticipate that it will sell out online fairly quickly,” said Daniella Vitale, Barneys’ chief operating officer and senior executive vice president.
The Proenza Schouler graduation-to-greatness story is well known to the industry, devout fashion fans and the label’s most loyal customers, but does the average Barneys shopper know and, more importantly, will history drive a sale? Vitale thinks so. “The storytelling is part of what we do and do well,” she said. “This resonates with our customers, and it is important that we differentiate ourselves with these compelling stories behind our brands.”
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.