The contemporary sibling of Yigal Azrouël’s signature collection, Cut25 today will unveil its first store, a 1,400-square-foot flagship at 129 Grand Street in SoHo. It’s expected to do sales of $1,000 a square foot and is the first of three Manhattan units Azrouël plans to open by year’s end in locations such as Bleecker Street and Third Avenue in the 60s. The designer has a goal of launching 10 Cut25 stores by 2013.
“We’re going to have assertive company-owned retail,” said Azrouël, who also is targeting malls and shop-in-shops in department and specialty stores. “Clients asked for this. We felt there was a void in the market. There was a need for something sexy, young and fresh.”
“The [Cut25] girls want to buy it now and wear it now,” Azrouël said, adding that his main collection was nurtured for over a decade. “For me, designing [Cut25] is more about the trends. I think of the cool downtown girls and how they layer their pieces.”
Cut25, which uses techno knits, washed silks and fabrics with graphic prints, and slits and cutouts as design elements, is priced 55 percent below the signature Yigal Azrouël line. A Cut25 techno knit dress with braided chiffon appliqués and ribbed side panels is $520. A washed crepe de chine dress with open back detail and contrast piping is $295. Two-in-one jackets and coats have removable sleeves for versatility. A tan raincoat that doubles as a coat dress is $595 and a leather motorcycle jacket that converts to a vest is $995.
Azrouël, who opened his eponymous flagship on West 14th Street when the Meatpacking District “was like the Wild West,” said he’s looking for space near Cut25 for that collection. “What’s happening in the neighborhood is exciting,” he said, citing the opening of the Mondrian Hotel, the upcoming launch of Alexander Wang’s store and fixtures such as Opening Ceremony. “We like to cluster first then grow into a new city,” said Donata Minelli, chief executive officer of Yigal Azrouël, adding, “We currently have no investors, but we may as we roll out.”
Cut25, which launched at Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Intermix, now has 175 distribution points in 15 countries. International expansion is a priority. The brand is sold at Harvey Nichols in the U.K. and Middle East and will be presented at Tranoï, the Paris trade show.
Cut25 is adding a full handbag line for spring 2013. Sunglasses, swimwear and shoes are under discussion. The brand offers scarves, belts and select handbags, while other designers contribute jewelry and hats. “I love the idea of having other designers and artists in the store,” Azrouël said. “People who I know on a personal level and collaborated with in the past.”
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion