By  on October 27, 2010

With a design pedigree that includes time served in the studios of Emanuel Ungaro haute couture, Giambattista Valli, Haider Ackermann, Olivier Theyskens and Carolina Herrera, it’s understandable that Serkan Sarier has picked up a taste for eveningwear with a couture sensibility.

On Monday in New York, Sarier presented his first solo collection under the label Brood, a 12-piece lineup of gorgeous washed, silk taffeta dresses that counter classic couture silhouettes with sporty details. “When I started with Mr. Ungaro, I saw how elaborate and time-consuming it was to construct a couture piece,” says Sarier, who grew up in Germany and graduated from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 2002. “The question with Brood was, how can you create volume and evoke a couture sensibility without that labor, and with a more spontaneous and effortless approach?”

It’s a stellar debut that bears the influence of Sarier’s experience in the clothes’ sophisticated shapes with ruched and pleated details, which he achieves through athletic references, such as adjustable zipper and toggle details. A panel of yellow fabric is draped from a voluminous, asymmetric shoulder and around the hip of a short cocktail dress, and an ivory gown has a deconstructed anorak top and elaborately ruched skirt. Sarier says he wanted to create something “a girl would wear to a black-tie gala and afterward go to a club with her friends and sit on the stairs and feel perfectly appropriately dressed for both occasions.”

Sarier, who is based in New York began work on the collection three months ago, producing everything locally. So far his staff includes himself and a patternmaker, but he counts Mario Grauso, with whom he worked at Puig, as one of his closest advisers and supporters, although he has no formal role at the company. He puts his retail prices between $2,500 and $3,500, though the collection hadn’t been presented to stores at press time. As for why he chose to leave the comfort of an established house like Carolina Herrera to branch out on his own, Sarier says, “It was now or never.”

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