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John Galliano’s pre-fall collection for Christian Dior took inspiration from two distinct aesthetics: Alfred Hitchcock’s icy heroines and Helmut Newton’s tough-chic glamazons. It added up to a strong and graphic, yet feminine, collection with long dresses and coats, double-faced wool suits and luxurious furs and evening dresses. The colors ranged from the classic gray of flannel to strong, vivid shades reminiscent of René Gruau’s drawings for Dior in the Fifties.