NEW YORK — Like a sprinkling of fairy dust, glitter and glitz will lend a dose of sparkle to fall.
Metallicized fabrics — a hit since last fall when they appeared on such runways as Donna Karan and Prada — set last week’s runways aglow. And judging from the selection at last month’s European Preview — a hint of what’s to come at next month’s Première Vision fabric fair in Paris — metallics will continue to shine their way through to spring ’06, and, many say, beyond.
“Evening looks are fast becoming more accepted for day, and metallics are a perfect example of this,” said François Damide, president of the U.S. division of French mill Bucol, the land of plenty when it comes to metallics, with a variety of jacquards and brocades as well as more subtle silks and silk blends. “When Miuccia Prada used our metallic jacquard poche for her spring 2002 collection, I think it really brought those looks to another level.”
The fabrics, which were stored in Bucol’s archives, were quite traditional in feel, added Damide — “until Miuccia and her team recolored them to include more tarnished metallics.”
That’s exactly what some retailers are saying will make metallics a hit come fall. “The most notable difference I’m seeing for fall is that the metallics are more burnished in color and not as shiny,” said Robert Burke, vice president and senior fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman. “I like them best when they’re mixed with traditional fabrics like tweeds and velvets.”
And the trend, he added, is fast becoming a classic look. “Metallics act like neutrals,” said Burke. “They go with everything and are easy to wear.” Among his picks for fall were several selections at Proenza Schouler.
Julie Gilhart, fashion director at Barneys New York, has found that anything gold or silver has been selling quite well. “Things that are reflective, that shimmer and shine, are really attractive to the eye, and we’ve gotten a great response from our customers. I think that will continue going forward,” she said. A fan of metallic looks herself, Gilhart said the fabrics offer a “good base. Anything works off of gold or silver, it really serves to balance things.” Highlights from the runways, she added, included a silver dress and drop-waist skirt at Behnaz Sarafpour and metallic print silk dresses at Zac Posen.“We’re still feeling very strongly about metallics,” offered Scott Tepper, fashion director at Henri Bendel. “The uses of metallics I [saw] on the [fall] runway are really a natural progression from the ones that were on the runway for spring. The designers really found a way to make these fabrics work for fall.”
Tepper liked the bold looks at Oscar de la Renta, Matthew Williamson and Anna Sui, as well as the more subtle touches on men’s wear fabrics on various runways. “Using metallic on heavier fabrics really tones down the look, which is also important,” he added.
For Joan Kaner, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus, metallics “add a luster to everything. They’re very appealing to our customers, who continue to respond to them. They love shine.” Kaner said she loves metallics mixed into tweeds for day, and sees metallicized fabrics as the perfect look for night. “Everyone loves something special, and these fabrics make for very special clothing,” she said, adding that tweeds shot with copper at Nanette Lepore were a highlight.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye