Carmen Marc Valvo: Carmen Marc Valvo began with one of his show’s strongest looks: a mink capelet over a long, lean-jacketed pantsuit in brown pinstriped cashmere. It was smart, chic, even sexy, but it was a maverick in the collection. Because Valvo is, after all, the man you go to for evening dresses, especially those floaty numbers on which he built his reputation and his business. And while there were lots of them, too many were a little deja vu. Among the few that could add some excitement to a Valvo fan’s wardrobe were the long burnt ombréd silk mouseline dress, a pale rose lace look and the black ruffled beauty.
There’s no question that furs are one of the important trends of the season, and Valvo offered his ladies some stunning fur coats, such as the lean beauty in brown broadtail, reversing to cashmere and a pink Swakara version. But perhaps he embraced the trend with too much gusto, since he piled fur pieces on just about every look — rather than enhancing his clothes, they often detracted from them. Over the years, the designer has demonstrated the talent to do it all, and while this collection had plenty to offer, it lacked Valvo’s usual focus.
Cynthia Rowley: Motherhood suits Cynthia Rowley. Just weeks after giving birth to her second daughter, Gigi Clementine, the designer sent out a more mellow, more sophisticated collection. The opener, a flowing rust jersey gown with a plunging neckline, made a fabulous, chic understatement. She carried that through the rest of her dresses in beautiful, airy chiffons, paired with a long, sporty coat or a chunky cardigan. Still, as her show notes indicated, fall was based on luxury camping looks. And, at times, Rowley certainly put the camp in camping, taking the motif a little too literally. Sometimes it was funny — the long-burning matchstick necklace — and sometimes not — nylon rock-climbing ropes lacing up a pullover or the gold appliqué antlers trimming a dress’ neckline. Those kitschy details, however, shouldn’t detract from the overall grown-up attitude of simple, luxe knits and the sophisticated appeal of an unadorned black satin dress. Next time she ought to concentrate on improving her presentation, as the disorganized seat assigning delayed everything by almost an hour. The sooner Rowley gets the runway going, the sooner she’ll be at home toasting marshmallows with her girls.
“I see things on the hanger and I’m, like, ‘I never knew that color worked on me.’ It’s things you necessarily wouldn’t choose to wear, but once you put them on, you see why Janie is who Janie is." — Lily Collins on working with former "Mad Men" costume designer, Janie Bryant on creating looks for her role as Celia Brady's in Amazon series, "The Last Tycoon." 📸@jilliansollazzo #wwdeye
EXCLUSIVE: Sarah Rutson has been tapped to Build New American Fashion Group. The parent of Joie, Equipment and Current/Elliott hired the merchant to rev up its brands and expand its portfolio into designer, beauty and lifestyle categories. Read more on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion
Michael Kors' $1.3B Jimmy Choo deal has the company squaring off with Coach Inc. as both seek to build American powerhouses. Coach bought Stuart Weitzman in 2015 and Kate Spade just two weeks ago, but Michael Kors' acquisition may be putting pressure on its rival in the new push for scale. #wwdnews (📷: George Chinsee)
Meet actress Lucy Boynton, who plays opposite Naomi Watts in the recently released Netflix series "Gypsy." Boynton stopped by WWD to talk about her upcoming projects and her nomadic lifestyle. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)