NEW YORK — Looks like the first time may be a charm for men's wear designer Thom Browne and Brooks Bros. At an intimate presentation Wednesday, Browne, the firm's "guest designer," presented the debut Black Fleece collection, full of classic looks with a modern twist. Digging deep into Brooks Bros.' archives — he even used several vintage necktie patterns on his new versions — Browne turned out beautifully tailored suits with a late-Forties and Fifties flair, as well as some great soft pleated dresses, plaid knits and men's wear-inspired topper coats. The label's first attempt at true eveningwear, however, missed the mark, especially when heavy fabrics stiffened the looks.

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