A Color Wave, the Wild West and Little Bo Peeps – Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano
Valentino created a colorful, corset-filled collection that ws fresh and young, while Jean Paul Gaultier headed out West with looks ideal for saloon belles and John Galliano went to town with a Little Bo Peep theme.
Valentino: Just call him Mr. Rourke, because, come spring, Valentino will make all his ladies’ fantasies come true. Fashion’s trade winds have changed course this season, taking things in a decidedly feminine direction, and Valentino has made the most of it. His collection was light, fresh and younger than in recent memory. It was, in fact, delightful.Valentino caught the corsetry wave, showing laced-up looks for day, including a white bowed lace top with its corset built in, which was shown paired with a pristine lace-edged miniskirt in sleek satin. Mining a nautical vein, he then sailed on, sending out clothes that would look great on the stylish women invited aboard his own yacht. A simple navy sweater was shown with classic white pants, while a slim officer’s coat was dotted with bauble buttons. But things really took off when Valentino dove headlong into color, serving up flirty dresses and glamorous gowns in chartreuse, aqua, lavender and hot pink. A bitsy floral camisole and miniskirt came wrapped around with lavender ribbon. Schools of butterflies fluttered by on a kimono top, while, prettier still, some landed on the ankle straps of Valentino’s fabulous high heels or covered a bolero. Of course, he also did gowns galore, from dramatically wrapped numbers to those inset with fishnet portholes at the waist. Quite a catch for Oscar night.
Jean Paul Gaultier: Yee-haw, as they say way out West. Jean Paul Gaultier saddled up for a wild Western romp of a spring collection, showing looks that gave a nod to saloon belles like Mae West and the cowpokes who love them. An apron dress trimmed like overalls trailed its shoulder straps behind like ribbons. His dark denim jeans, cut to accommodate cowboy boots, came tricked out with corset lacing. Gauzy sweaters were crocheted with built-in pasties. And a pinstriped vest was shown over a pretty indigo dress dotted with prairie flowers. Using his patented layering method throughout, Gaultier cinched in blousy silk dresses, oversized shirts and everything else with curvy, laced-tight girdles that rode down over the hips. A frilled white eyelet dress that otherwise would have billowed came clamped down under a leather vest and matching girdle, while coats and suit jackets were held down and laced in, too. Phew.Sometimes, just like a bucking bronco, it all went a little out of control. And for those who appreciate Gaultier for his classic French sensibilities, this may not have been the collection of all time. It was, however, full of kick, and there were fabulous items to be found pinned down under all his girdling gear.
Hermès is launching a Laundromat pop-up shop in NYC - dubbed Hermèsmatic - where customers can bring their old scarves to be dip-dyed by an expert. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @donstahl)