Derek Lam: With his recent appointment as creative director of Tod's, all eyes are on Derek Lam. Now more than ever, he needs to find a strong identity for his own collection. But Tuesday's showing proved that this is still a work in progress, as Lam freely referenced tough-girl chic from other designers, perhaps too literally. Lam's genius is in American sportswear with a pretty, playful polish, one that's earned him recognition thus far, but an about-face standpoint only mixes up his message. Lam did deliver on a few looks, though, like a terrific tailored plaid jacket with navy sleeves. But working with a Frank Gehry-inspired architectural motif, he added too many tricky details — wayward stitching and trailing zippers — that distracted. If Lam wants to lead his girl toward edgier territory, he needs to find his own voice with which to do it.|
Ellen Tracy: Ellen Tracy's runway was as clean and classic as it gets: True blue, American sportswear — from black trousers to alpaca toppers shown in brown and ivory — that took a fresh, younger turn for evening. It was nada in terms of innovation, but that's not what this label is about. After all, these are clothes with staying, and, perhaps more importantly, selling power, which explains all the love from those retail heavyweights in the front row.
MaxAzria: The MaxAzria woman's "vision comes alive as textures and patterns collide." So said Azria's show notes, and there was certainly no shortage of ideas in his collection. While it was more polished and runway-ready than last season's, the overall effect was a hodgepodge of looks that needed serious editing: less layering, fewer overwrought details. However, one might find a theme here via the charming schoolgirl touches — pleats, plaids and tweeds — and especially fun were the oversized cardigans. If that mood does not appeal to Azria's socialite followers, they will get their due from his gala-ready evening dresses.
Generra: While reminiscent of the ubersuccessful collections of her previous employer Marc Jacobs, Pina Ferlisi's second outing for Generra proved a winner. A former accessories designer, Ferlisi created a covetable collection of effortlessly cool layering pieces: soft washed silk tunics, cableknit cardigans and slouchy trousers in monochromatic combinations, which, chances are, will land on the "It" lists of retailers and style mavens alike.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)