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Adampluseve: With French design house Maison Jansen as inspiration, Adam Lippes sent out another knockout adampluseve collection, one that culled the decorating firm’s mix-it-up sensibility. There was everything from chunky knit neckwarmers to a tie-dyed, hand-washed herringbone coat to prettily pleated dresses — the sorts of clothes that inspire merch-driven dreams, not to mention those of girls lusting after the next big thing. Lippes luxed up a cropped peacoat with woven aluminum, and threaded chain-link jewelry across the neckline of a simple cashmere top: sure signs the former Oscar de la Renta creative director is tapping into his mentor’s polished sensibility without losing the casual-chic vigor Lippes has made his own. Another case in point: the boyish parachute dress cut in black silk taffeta. Lippes is obviously doing something right. Earlier this week, it was announced that the luxury house Richemont was providing backing for adampluseve through one of its latest investments, The Atelier Fund. And in September, Lippes will have one more venue in which to showcase his singular vision — his first freestanding store in New York.
Marchesa: What a difference a season makes. After spring’s rosette-themed extravaganza, Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig reined it all in for fall. The Brit duo were wise to show 20 tightly edited looks in an uncomplicated tableau presentation that kept the focus on the clothes. Show notes referenced Marlene Dietrich and a masculine/feminine story, but at the end of the day, it was all about beautiful red-carpet dresses. Between the witty, tuxedo-style numbers, the deftly draped and bejeweled Empires and flowing Grecian gowns, Chapman and Craig have the art of celebrity dressing down pat.
McQ: Let the revolution begin — McQ style, that is. Referencing the Parisian student uprising in 1968, Alexander McQueen delivered a cool, polished series of military-inspired looks in his third McQ collection. Tailored coats figured prominently, from a black-and-white belted degradé trench to an olive jacquard wool coat emblazoned with a print of protest words, a theme that was carried into T-shirts and dresses, too. The designer also showed softer silhouettes, including cowl-neck sweaters and shift dresses with his signature punky touches, like oversized zippers and mesh details. The pièce de résistance? A deliciously oversized canvas and cableknit cardigan, which may just have “It” girls chanting, “Long live McQueen.”
Betsey Johnson: She called her collection “School of Charm,” which, for Betsey Johnson, meant lots of naughty schoolteacher or prim-student looks, with a lick of metallic cocktail numbers thrown in for good measure. Truth be told, however, this collection — her 58th — was positively sedate, done mostly in black with nary a peek of pink tulle in sight. But that’s not to say it was a bore. The pretty silk day dresses, bow blouses and great short-sleeved coats in tweed or plaid are the sort of clothes that will entice her current fans, and probably bring a whole new crop of them cartwheeling into her world.