Counteracting the season's clean aesthetic, some designers took the more-is-more approach, showing ruffles, shredded tulle and lots of volume.

Anna Molinari: Rosella Tarabini has a tendency to evoke an unkempt artsy edge when designing a collection. For spring, Tarabini went no holds barred with that approach. She started out with some beautiful couture-like, if unkempt, dresses in nude and lavender shredded tulle. But from there, things got a little crazy. Bitten by the volume bug, Tarabini puffed up paper-bag brown and lilac taffeta into ridiculously proportioned jackets and dresses. Even the aforementioned shredded tulle looked odd when layered with abandon into big puffball skirts under strict corsetry or slice-and-dice knits. There was one moment of perfect calm, however — a baby-doll dress in scalloped-edge white cotton belted in leather, worn with a cute little cardigan.

Antonio Marras: "This is what we should see more of in Milan," said Michael Fink, fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, walking out of the Antonio Marras show.

How true. Marras isn't obsessed with commercial clout or trend mania. But he usually weaves his collection around a theme. And, from the music-score invitation, white curtains and wood-plank catwalk, it was clear that ballet was twirling around in his head. But there wasn't a tutu-ed girl in sight. Instead, he exercised his more-is-more vision with bias cuts, layers, embroideries, ruching, ribbons and ruffles. All worked to the hilt.

Side-wrapped taffeta skirts flounced from beneath see-through tops, ruffles tumbled down the front of blouses and intricate embroidery showered almost every garment. Tossed over the shoulders were jackets that were either very boxy or teeny. As the sound track played the score from "Swan Lake," out came a group of black chinoiserie dresses — gossamer numbers with jet beading and side-wrapped taffeta skirts under shrunken jackets — the kind of clothes that should keep fashionistas on their toes.

Krizia: Mariuccia Mandelli gave her iconic tiger the season off, offering the position as Krizia mascot to a red-and-blue-faced, Papuan monkey instead. The simian put in a few appearances, staring out eerily from a couple of tops. Otherwise, Mandelli went bananas with a safari theme.

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