Michael and Hushi: Michael Sears and Hushi Mortezaie have long been inspired by Jennie Livingston’s 1990 film, “Paris Is Burning,” documenting the lives of the highly creative gay men who design costumes for and compete in drag balls. Much like the men in the movie, the pair are accustomed to bringing their elaborate visions to life with precious few resources. But out of struggle can arise real originality as well as beauty.
In that something-from-nothing vein, the duo worked humble materials to glamorous effect in witty looks, such as a perfectly chic Fifties-style party dress with a bodice made from a nylon messenger bag. And who can deny the brilliance of a black-and-white jacket and skirt crafted from a tracksuit with a sensor tag as the zipper pull?
Most of their silhouettes were tight and ultrafeminine, as in slim pencil skirts, nipped jackets and curve-hugging dresses. They continued the upside-down top idea from last season, this time with a crisp men’s oxford shirt flipped and worked into a sexy blouse. While this sort of approach might not be a retailer’s dream, the workmanship and thought that goes into it are evident to anyone who takes a moment to look. This is one design team that deserves to move beyond the realm of editorial darlings and into the world of retail favorites.
Atil Kutoglu: This season, Atil Kutoglu softened his usually tough, masculine lines into unquestionably sexy ones. He did it by softening shoulders, creating flirtier shapes and adding sheer or bare touches. The best styles were a pleated camel silk minidress; a one-shouldered silver maillot, and a green crushed-leather trenchcoat worn with fluid, embroidered chiffon pants. At times, things got too gimmicky, as with the tricky Turkish pants and assorted asymmetric looks. But judging by this collection, it looks as if Kutoglu is headed in the right direction.
Zero by Maria Cornejo: It’s not often that you come across a young talent who creates clothes that are individual, well-made and wearable, but Maria Cornejo fits the bill. For her label, Zero, Cornejo sent out a small spring collection of minimalistic looks with geometric constructions that had an architectural quality. This might sound tricky, but it wasn’t. Among the best looks were a group of cropped obi jackets, slim, high-waisted skirts, an assortment of wrap tops and a sexy dress with a long sash that tied in back — all of which are sure to be hits in her Mott Street boutique.
Yigal Azrouel: Azrouel, who showed at his boutique, sent out a collection packed with plenty of sexy appeal. But he still wants his ladies to look like ladies for every hour of the day, so there was no denim here. The designer, who’s known for his printed jerseys, took a different tack for spring with glamorous, body-conscious silk charmeuse dresses; sharply sculpted jackets; a sizzling strapless dress; smart pants, and a beautiful slipdress with intricate lace insets.
Bahar Korçan: Watching the parade of sliced, shredded Tarzan-cum-Jane clothes worn by models who were bandaged, greased, dusted with seeds and taking their job very seriously, even a fashionista might ask, “Who on earth would wear that?” The clothes themselves were definitely frivolous, fun and sexy. What was notable was the variety of terrific pants, especially those that combined dressed-up and dressed-down elements. Consider the striped beige tuxedo pants; a layered chiffon and organza pair; plum pinwale corduroys with a denim waist peeking out, or the good-looking capris, including a jolly green jumpsuit.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over the top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty