After a launch last season at the Ritz in Paris, Tod's presented Derek Lam's capsule clothing collection for the house in its Milan headquarters this time. Lam said he was inspired by the Milanese "I'll-be-there-in-five," style. "Everything should look as if you could just hop on a scooter and go," he quipped.

To wit, his outerwear sported a certain dash - a gutsy wool cape; a suede A-line coat. He added denim in one style of jeans - lean, naturally - and a skirt. And he designed a more feminine polo to complement spring's sporty version, recolored for fall. Which is exactly the point of the collection: to mirror Tod's accessories that so deftly meld house classics with new looks each season.

Lam's fall collection will have the same limited 15-store distribution as spring, which is just hitting the sales floor now. Early returns indicate a hit. "Already," he noted, "there's a celebrity waiting list for the trench."

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