NEW YORK — Winter might not be ready to give up its hold on New York, but Bloomingdale’s pushed the season along a bit by unveiling its “Dress for Spring” campaign on Tuesday night in the midst of a sticky snow...
NEW YORK — Winter might not be ready to give up its hold on New York, but Bloomingdale’s pushed the season along a bit by unveiling its “Dress for Spring” campaign on Tuesday night in the midst of a sticky snow storm.
The retailer, which asked several of its sportswear resources to design exclusive dresses for the season, had dresses in its windows from Lexington Avenue around to Third Avenue and many more on the fourth floor, where Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president of fashion direction, discussed the merits of wearing dresses with many of the designers involved in the project. So what if it stole a little thunder from competitor Lord & Taylor, which has traditionally marketed itself as “America’s Dress Address.”
“It’s a beautiful way to get dressed,” said Perry Ellis women’s designer Patrick Robinson. “Especially now, women are starting to buy spring because they think that if they buy something sleeveless, then it will start warming up.”
Anna Sui considers dresses to be a novel way of dressing for a generation that was reared on sportswear.
“It’s so easy,” she said. “Rather than dealing with a jacket, shirt and pants or a skirt, all you have to think about is the dress.”
“It’s a fundamental, isn’t it?” asked Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa. “Women love dresses.”
“It’s a celebration of femininity,” added Zac Posen. “Women want to be in dresses right now because they are fun and flirty, and a way for them to express themselves and be cool.”
Many designers involved said creating exclusives for retailers is becoming more important as a means of differentiating the look of dress and sportswear departments from store to store, as well as a way to maintain their individual importance to buyers. Costa made a pink day dress with grosgrain ribbon trim, Posen created a pale pink rendition of his shell dress, and there were flower prints from Marc Jacobs and Derek Lam, pin dots from Ralph Lauren and purple netting from Vera Wang.
The store had sold 24 out of 25 of Donna Karan’s knotted red dresses since they hit the selling floor, Ruttenstein said, as more designers flowed into the store — Lam, Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco, Rebecca Taylor, Carmen Marc Valvo and Chaiken’s Jeff Mahshie, who brought along three staff members in dresses from his spring collection.Shoshanna Lonstein Gruss, whose dress collection helped revive the look over the last few years, noted that more stores are displaying dresses in other areas than the traditional ready-to-wear department. Bloomingdale’s, for example, displays dresses with sportswear on its second and third floors, making them more accessible to young, stylish shoppers.
“Now younger women are feeling more comfortable in dresses,” she said, wearing a strapless eyelet dress with sandals, despite the snow.
“To get here, I wore my dress with sweatpants,” she confessed, before realizing what her mother might think. “Put that I was wearing lipstick. As long as my Mom thinks I have lipstick on and my hair is brushed, I can do anything — I can commit murder.”
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast