There were good-looking clothes to suit a variety of real-world needs on the spring runways, ranging from pretty Empire dresses to cool skinny knits.
Nina Ricci: In fits and starts, Lars Nilsson has sent some very appealing clothes down the Nina Ricci runway, with varying amounts of curious filler presented in-between. For spring, however, he seems to have ironed out some of that awkwardness and to have truly cleaned up his act.
The collection was a jaunty mix of airy dresses and Franco-preppy sportswear. Sweaters in coral or periwinkle blue were worn with belled skirts in stiff cotton drill or in smart seersucker. A shooting-star print carried throughout, lending a quirky sparkle to an Empire-waist dress. While a tricky half-belting technique threw a few dresses off-balance, overall, Nilsson's collection demonstrated plenty of personality without sucking the air out of the room.
Akris: At Akris, Swiss-based designer Albert Kriemler sees no reason to raise a ruckus, even for the occasion of a fashion show. But quiet doesn't necessitate boredom. Kriemler raises his points of interest in a restrained way — a chic, casually rolled-up dolman sleeve on jackets and dresses, the turned-up hem on lovely pleated skirts or a subtle print of flower petals barely visible on a smokey chiffon dress.
Though the extraneous addition of a pleated panel on skirts and dresses didn't quite compute, it was easily overlooked. Along with soft pieces in muted shades of silk — chiffon, organza and georgette — were slim tailored pants paired with equally slim jackets or slightly belled knits. Eveningwear options — ultra-simple draped chiffon dresses — weren't perfect, but still greatly improved from last season's lingerie-like offerings. In the end, it was a collection that will easily leap from runway to reality and delight Kriemler's retail fans.
Giambattista Valli: Giambattista Valli has joined the jostling pack of designers who are ready, willing and able to dress the world's socialites. For their polite pleasure, he showed sculpted cocktail dresses printed with bitsy garlands and others with rosettes trapped in their hems. There were lunching options beyond the classic suit for the more modern lady, like his gently twisted sweater and slim lace skirt. Besides a few experiments with volume — including one dress with a bustled caboose — it all looked perfectly viable.Valli's clothes are beautifully made, if occasionally overblown.
Ann Demeulemeester: Those trend followers growing weary of saccharin romance may find what they're seeking in Ann Demeulemeester's aesthetic. Her spring show had a healthy selection of very wearable pieces in the above-it-all, punk vein embodied by longtime muse Patti Smith. Cool, skinny knits layered up with thin suede vests hung languidly over lean and long bias satin skirts or baggy pants. A shrunken-black jacket was well-cut and covetable. She worked the simple detail of a slimly shaped halter neck again and again, draping it over the collarbones in front or over the shoulders in back to elegant effect, except in a series of paint-spattered white silk looks. Demeulemeester still clung to the démodé look of matted hair, chalk-white face and vampirish black satins in much of her presentation, but her fresher takes on spring were a step in the right direction.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty