There were good-looking clothes to suit a variety of real-world needs on the spring runways, ranging from pretty Empire dresses to cool skinny knits.
Nina Ricci: In fits and starts, Lars Nilsson has sent some very appealing clothes down the Nina Ricci runway, with varying amounts of curious filler presented in-between. For spring, however, he seems to have ironed out some of that awkwardness and to have truly cleaned up his act.
The collection was a jaunty mix of airy dresses and Franco-preppy sportswear. Sweaters in coral or periwinkle blue were worn with belled skirts in stiff cotton drill or in smart seersucker. A shooting-star print carried throughout, lending a quirky sparkle to an Empire-waist dress. While a tricky half-belting technique threw a few dresses off-balance, overall, Nilsson's collection demonstrated plenty of personality without sucking the air out of the room.
Akris: At Akris, Swiss-based designer Albert Kriemler sees no reason to raise a ruckus, even for the occasion of a fashion show. But quiet doesn't necessitate boredom. Kriemler raises his points of interest in a restrained way — a chic, casually rolled-up dolman sleeve on jackets and dresses, the turned-up hem on lovely pleated skirts or a subtle print of flower petals barely visible on a smokey chiffon dress.
Though the extraneous addition of a pleated panel on skirts and dresses didn't quite compute, it was easily overlooked. Along with soft pieces in muted shades of silk — chiffon, organza and georgette — were slim tailored pants paired with equally slim jackets or slightly belled knits. Eveningwear options — ultra-simple draped chiffon dresses — weren't perfect, but still greatly improved from last season's lingerie-like offerings. In the end, it was a collection that will easily leap from runway to reality and delight Kriemler's retail fans.
Giambattista Valli: Giambattista Valli has joined the jostling pack of designers who are ready, willing and able to dress the world's socialites. For their polite pleasure, he showed sculpted cocktail dresses printed with bitsy garlands and others with rosettes trapped in their hems. There were lunching options beyond the classic suit for the more modern lady, like his gently twisted sweater and slim lace skirt. Besides a few experiments with volume — including one dress with a bustled caboose — it all looked perfectly viable.Valli's clothes are beautifully made, if occasionally overblown.
Ann Demeulemeester: Those trend followers growing weary of saccharin romance may find what they're seeking in Ann Demeulemeester's aesthetic. Her spring show had a healthy selection of very wearable pieces in the above-it-all, punk vein embodied by longtime muse Patti Smith. Cool, skinny knits layered up with thin suede vests hung languidly over lean and long bias satin skirts or baggy pants. A shrunken-black jacket was well-cut and covetable. She worked the simple detail of a slimly shaped halter neck again and again, draping it over the collarbones in front or over the shoulders in back to elegant effect, except in a series of paint-spattered white silk looks. Demeulemeester still clung to the démodé look of matted hair, chalk-white face and vampirish black satins in much of her presentation, but her fresher takes on spring were a step in the right direction.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye