Terrific coats, ranging from trenches to military greatcoats to scallop-edged furs were at the heart of some of the standout collections for fall. Beautiful evening looks were part of the action, too.
Dolce & Gabbana: Napoleon Bonaparte — emperor, egoist, good-looking guy in a frock coat. And what a way with the ladies. On that point at least, he has kindred spirits in Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who became smitten with him after reading Stefan Gläser's book, "Frauen Um Napoleon (Napoleon's Women)." They were so taken with it that they decided to use it as their fall inspiration, no doubt elated by the possibilities for the gender play they love. The result: a delightfully bold, flamboyant affair.
Perhaps also inspired by their man-muse, the designers waxed a bit political before the show. "Femininity is power," Dolce declared. And if they could express that yin and yang might in precision piping and grandly buckled boots on one hand, and oh-so-ethereal embroideries on the other, what feminist babe wouldn't join the cause?
The set, an elaborate carousel constructed of gleaming metal pillars, was supposed to resemble a life-sized jewelry box. (Power trip be darned. Women, according to Gabbana, "are true jewels.")
The show opened with some major construction, flashing enough highfalutin military regalia to win back Waterloo. Truth be told, it bore some trappings of a costume fete — all brass-buttoned, gold-bullioned and cutaway. But then, these designers place no premium on subtlety when working a motif. Besides, the goods looked great: coats in cashmere, rich skins, weighty silks and wools; jackets in ostrich, velvets and fur, some feather-trimmed. And one can assume any girl not ready to ship out in her gussied-up admiral's breeches can find dressed-down duds in pre-fall.
As for Josephine's side of the story, a few rich-toned velvet dresses, belted high in that essential Empire way, segued into the finale of spectacular eveningwear — 13 gowns crafted from silks, feathers, beads and 46 archival Lesage embroideries. Despite their gentility, each was a high-impact stunner. In other words, perfect, because, just like Josephine, Dolce & Gabbana's girls like to be noticed — especially at night.Surely Napoleon would approve. Though he may have had larger issues in mind, his words could just as well apply to event dressing. "Glory is fleeting," the Emperor said, "but obscurity is forever."
Fendi: As they say in the circus, the show must go on. So after the collapse of the photographers' stand that resulted in one sprained ankle and a walkout by nearly all the other photographers, Karl Lagerfeld's fall show for Fendi not only went on, it did so with no more than the standard delay.
Perhaps they knew they had a winner on their hands — step two in Lagerfeld's master plan to conquer three fashion capitals with very different collections. The mood for Milan and Fendi: clean and structured, with a soupçon of Space-Age chic. The cleanup had started for spring. But while then, the look was all girlish wiles, here Lagerfeld pared down even more while upping the chic factor, and the attitude, with a new sophistication. To that end, he favored short, controlled cuts in sturdy, wintery fabrics, emboldened with graphic slashed pockets and belts threaded through side slits for a free-fall cut in back.
In fact, Lagerfeld loves the waist. He cinched it, smocked it and corseted it, countering the looseness with graceful lantern-sleeve blouses worn over trousers for a faintly Forties vibe. And he worked the shirt motif further still, countering all the structure with fluid dresses that boasted a rare feature — manageable bubble skirts.
As for the furs, some found them too quiet for fall at Fendi. Yet one could delight in a little shrug jacket over a gold bustier and skirt; racy short numbers of the cinched-front/loose back variety, and more decorative fare, including a group of tailored whites piped in black, and sheared scallop-edged numbers in pale gray and beige combos.
Round two — a low-key hit for Karl; one more to go.
Burberry Prorsum: Just like his perennial muse, Kate Moss, who simply glowed in the front row at Thursday evening's show, Christopher Bailey's once-waifish and slightly wayward Burberry girl has grown up a lot over the past few months — and she's certainly looking the better for it. His striking fall collection gave off a high-beam polish he's never exhibited on the runway before. Toning down the quirky Brit cool that's defined his previous collections for the house, Bailey deftly took his look from coltish to graceful in a single bound. It was a smart move that came at just the right time.He began, as he has in the past, by drawing directly from the deep Burberry taproot — namely, the trenchcoat — reviving that classic, this time in ever more fabulous forms. Out they came: bordered in rich fur, sleek in luxe leather, snazzy with jet beading or demure in fine lace. Something for everyone — or several somethings for those with a budget that allows. Furthering his newly sophisticated point of view, Bailey also sent out plenty of sportswear, including loads of featherweight sweaters and unfussy tiered skirts, as well as sharp men's suits and quiet chiffon dresses. The look was fresh without ever resorting to gimmicks, and, though there was a whiff of nostalgia in the air, it wasn't era-specific. Bailey's bright-eyed new approach championed fine-tuned, intriguing clothes without a hint of irony.
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)