Talk about drama. Given Dior’s yearlong hunt to fill the role of creative director, the scandal that had opened the position in the first place and Raf Simons’ blockbuster finale for Jil Sander punctuating what was, in effect, his unceremonious, bizarre firing, the designer’s Dior show on Friday afternoon would prove the most eagerly awaited ready-to-wear debut at a major house in years.
Well worth every drop of anticipation and every second of the wait, Simons blew past expectations. In 14 dazzling minutes (albeit with lots of intense work prior), he thrust Dior into a place it hasn’t been in some time, a place where clothes count as more than glossy foils around which to explode cash-cow accessories and beauty businesses. This collection pulsed with that Holy-Grail fusion of currency and cool.
It’s difficult to imagine Simons’ emotions during the prelude to the big event. If at all unnerved, he gave no indication in a preshow conversation with WWD. Unlike his open, bright white front-of-house, Simons’ private salon backstage was tented in black and fitted with a dark sofa and a pair of chairs. Calm but animated, the designer was open about his thought process coming into Dior and declared his exit from Sander “so out of my system.” He also took issue with past characteristics of himself as a minimalist.
“Everyone thought I was a minimalist,” Simons noted of his tenure at Sander. “I love minimalism. There will often be that kind of aesthetic; that kind of concept will be very often a part of my world. But it’s not the only thing that I’m interested in.”
He would soon illustrate that point in a collection that established Dior’s new baseline: controlled but decorative, feminine, sensual. And, to use his word, “liberating,” a concept he insisted was first brought to the house by its founder.
While by today’s standards the New Look hardly seems liberating, Simons begged to differ. “Mr. Christian Dior was giving a reaction to the aesthetic of the moment, which was a restrictive aesthetic,” he argued. “He brought fantasy again, and the whole idea about sensuality and the female body. And [the focus on] the waist, and the hip and the breast. It was a way of freeing up from a certain kind of restriction.”
Simons wants to wave the freedom flag as well. While he considers the current rush of minimalism often attractive and “probably necessary,” he identified a lack of forward motion resulting in too-familiar clothes and a mundane dilution of the original concept. “Why does it look so related to what it was in the Nineties? That’s my question. Why is it so much white cotton shirting [buttoned] up to the neck? And why do I not see sex, and why do I not see fun in that world, and why do I not see movement in that world? And why do I not see the female body in that world? I think it’s interesting to bring part [of minimalism] into the world of Dior, but I also want to make it very sensual and sexual and very free. Liberated is probably the most important message.”
In the lead-up to this show, Simons immersed himself in the house archives and pondered how to best achieve such integration. In fact, he had a considerable head start. Beginning with his “couture” collection for Sander several seasons ago, he had begun to incorporate more obvious flourish into his work. For Dior, he liked the notion of a futuristic spin, not only in the expected (from him) intellectual sense of constant forward projection, but in the more playful fashion sense, through a Sixties lens.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye