A Sense of Drama – Vivienne Tam, Alice Roi, Carlos Miele, Milly by Michelle Smith, Marc Bouwer
Think Old Hollywood. Katharine Hepburn, Greta Garbo and Veronica Lake are some of the silver-screen goddesses designers are channeling for fall. Meanwhile, grown-up schoolgirl looks have a strong presence of their own.
Vivienne Tam: Gung Hay Fat Choy! Vivienne Tam’s show began promisingly enough. The day was certainly auspicious — Chinese New Year, which the designer celebrated by leaving red lai-see envelopes, containing one greenback, on everyone’s seat — and the premise was plenty inviting: a night at the opera with Greta Garbo. Of course, Tam being Tam, the drama in question was the Beijing opera, and she kept the references to prints and silhouettes, which was a good thing, since her collections often fall short when she’s too mired in her own sinophilia. This time, the two (Chinese opera and Garbo) were a match made in tien as Tam showed a masked print here, a Chinese beaded and embroidered accent there, and did Garbo to the hilt with everything else in the lineup. There were Forties skirts and chiffon tie blouses, high-waist trousers in plaid as well as velvet dresses and fitted jackets. Tam, however, steered off course during the second half, with the sheath dresses, taffeta getups and a pleated metallic magenta skirt that were all pretty enough on their own, but downright foreign to the overall tone of the collection.
Alice Roi: Alice Roi is steadily gaining momentum. For fall, Roi went with sleeker, more refined versions of her often kooky fashions of past seasons. Perhaps it is an aftereffect of her recent engagement or simply a function of experience. The designer displayed grown-up schoolgirl charm in the form of sweet velvet ruffled dresses and velvet eyelet tunics as well as wool pinafore dresses over smartly tailored shirts. Thick woolen sweaters were belted over leggings and miniskirts in subtle navy and bright orange and mustard yellows. Though she proved her talents in her blouses and dresses, her sampling of pants, such as the flared, tight “dandy pants,” and her low-slung satin track pants, were a tough sell. This season marked Roi’s first foray into a licensing deal with Tendler Furs, and the result was fur-trimmed belted blazers, a woven mink preppy-ish sweater and a smattering of fur accessories.
Carlos Miele: It’s obvious from his work that Carlos Miele loves women. Often, however, his fall collection seemed to be populated with dresses that tried too hard to make his beloved sexy customer the belle of the ball. Remember when your mother told you to look in the mirror and take off one thing before you left the house? Well, it’s sound advice, and Miele’s fall collection was at its best when the designer reined himself in just a touch. One such look — a low-neck, multicolored chiffon dress — was by no means simple, but was thankfully free of a fluttering fishtail hem, superfluous pleating or a heavy macramé trim that burdened some of his other pieces. The designer’s expansion to separates was a plus, with elegant pairings of navy cashmere dotted knits and chiffon skirts, both short and long. And though the designer is attempting to bring about social change by employing local Brazilian craftsmen to do handwork on his gowns, the pleated appliqué and macramé only weighed his work down.Milly by Michelle Smith: Katharine Hepburn and Bette Davis would have loved Michelle Smith’s Milly lineup. For fall, the designer tapped into Hollywood’s film-noir archives — all the sassy dames who walked the MGM back lot smoking cigarettes and wearing trousers before it was the thing to do. Dropping the frou of past seasons, Smith went for superluxe, from polished satin dresses and skirts to dramatically big furs, provided by Saga. The long tweed trousers topped by belted sweaters and silky blouses might have had Hepburn’s sporty blue-blood racing. And all the strong-shouldered jackets and suits would have been right up Davis’ chic alley. Ditto the fantastic espresso fake mink herringbone wrap, belted to a feather-print chiffon dress. Only a few too slick looks, like the black satin halter jumpsuit, rang too disco for comfort.
Marc Bouwer: If the runway show Marc Bouwer presented at the newly minted Cipriani on 23rd Street is any indication, this designer loves the glamour, glitter and decadence of Old Hollywood. His fall collection was an ode to the silver-screen sirens of yesteryear — think Veronica Lake in melt-in-your-mouth silk satin columns — which bodes well for the sexy starlets of today who adore Monsieur Marc so much. A draped Empire gown paired with a fur chubby made a strong red-carpet statement, as did the beaded kimono dress and the velvet satin floor-sweeping confections. As always, the furs were elegantly shown, as in the crop coyote jackets, braided mink coats and knitted mink-tailed stoles, which made for the perfect accoutrements to his Tinseltown-bound eveningwear.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty