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A Young View From Paris

Three European beauty firms - Lanvin, Trussardi and Roger & Gallet - are launching fragrances aimed at youthful consumers in coming months.

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PARIS — Three European beauty firms are cooking up a youth-quake.

Lanvin, Trussardi and Roger & Gallet are all launching fragrances targeting youthful consumers in the coming months.

Lanvin will be introducing Lanvin Vetyver starting in June. The fragrance, which is the brand’s third for men, targets the 30-to-40-year-old set, a slightly younger demographic than its classic Lanvin L’Homme scent launched in 1997. Lanvin Vetyver’s core consumer is also expected to be older than that of Oxygen Pour Homme, which bowed in 2001.

“We only have two men’s fragrances, which is very few,” said Lena Pierotti, marketing and development manager for fragrances at Lanvin. “We wanted to create a new men’s fragrance that would be a big reinforcement [for the men’s portfolio], but we didn’t want to cannibalize Lanvin L’Homme.”

For Lanvin Vetyver, Pierotti looked to Lanvin’s fragrance archives. She originally thought the idea would be to modernize the brand’s scent Vetyver Lanvin, from 1964. But after attempting the remake, she and Synarome’s perfumer François Robert opted to create a new fragrance centered on vetiver. The result is a crisp, fresh woody that features top notes of lime, lemon, bergamot and juniper; heart notes of bitter orange, thyme, white jasmine, nutmeg and pimento berry, and cedar, sandal, ambroxan, musk and vetiverol at the base.

Lanvin Vetyver’s green-tinted juice will come in the same rounded bottle as Lanvin L’Homme. The new scent’s cap, however, is matte metal, whereas the older scent’s is shiny.

Industry sources estimate Lanvin Vetyver could generate $10.8 million in wholesale volume in its first year. Dollar figures have been converted from the euro at current exchange rates.

Lanvin Vetyver will bow in France in June, while the rest of Europe, the Middle East and Asia will start selling the scent in September. The U.S. is slated for early 2004.

The fragrance’s launch will be accompanied by single-page advertisements. They feature a Lanvin Vetyver bottle lying on a white linen shirt whose collar is open. The ad is meant to be a more laid-back version than that of Lanvin L’Homme, which features a buttoned-up, starched shirt.

Lanvin Vetyver eau de toilette will come in 30-, 50- and 100-ml. sprays that will retail for $39, $48 and $70, respectively.

Also going for a younger demographic is Italian fashion brand Trussardi. It’s hoping to lure 15-to-25-year-olds with its new scent called Trussardi Jeans.

Its launch starting in April comes one year after the brand’s introduction of Trussardi Skin, a fragrance for women in the 30-to-40-year-old age bracket.

However, Jeans retains the same spirit as Skin, explained Ann Boutigny, vice president of marketing at Cosmopolitan Cosmetics, now part of Procter & Gamble, which owns the Trussardi fragrance license. For instance, each scent’s bottle has curvaceous and heavy glass elements. But while Skin comes in a cylindrical bottle tinted yellow and green, Jeans’ flacon is meant to be more ergonomic. It’s a flattish, rounded rectangle and — due to its colored juice and cap — has a blue-jean hue. L.O.V.E. created the bottle and its outer packaging.

While Cosmopolitan executives would not discuss numbers, industry sources estimate Trussardi Jeans could generate about $5 million in retail volume in its first year.

The floral musky scent was created by Charabot’s Anne Flipo. Its notes include violet, strawberry, white lily, concrete tuberose, white musk, litrix, heliotrope and some vanilla.

Michel Comte shot the ad visual, which will appear in single and double pages at launch. It features young members of the Trussardi family — Gaia and, in the background, Tomaso. They’re the same faces that appear in ads for the Trussardi Jeans fashion line.

Trussardi Jeans will be introduced in Italy and the Mediterranean basin this month. It will then be launched elsewhere in Europe in May.

Trussardi Jeans’ price points are about 10 percent less than that of the Skin collection. A 30-ml. eau de toilette spray will go for $33, the 50-ml. eau de toilette spray for $48 and the 75-ml. eau de toilette spray for $62.

Meanwhile, Roger & Gallet plans to add a little spice to its fragrance portfolio. The Yves Saint Laurent Beauté-owned brand, best known for its soaps and eaux de cologne, will introduce ginger-based Eau de Gingembre worldwide in May. The unisex eau parfumante (fragrant water, in English) is part of a plan to rejuvenate the brand.

“Today, our strategy is to capitalize on [our] heritage and at the same time to modernize the brand and make it for people today,” said Yvon Negre, managing director of Roger & Gallet. “Our older clients want the brand to evolve, and we also want to recruit a new, younger clientele.”

While Negre refused to talk numbers, industry sources estimate the scent could ring up $2.2 million in wholesale volume in its first year.

The scent’s juice, concocted by Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich, features top notes of Japanese ginger, neroli and bergamot; heart notes of Jamaican ginger absolute and ambrette, and base notes of benjoin balm and musk.

The line includes 100-, 200- and 400-ml. eau parfumante splash bottles, which will retail for $28, $40 and $62, respectively. Spray versions of the fragrance will also be available in 100- and 200-ml. sizes that will sell for $32 and $44.

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