Haute couture — an identity crisis? Hardly a new notion. But the latest manifestations of it are playing out lethargically in this disaffecting couture season. Even Karl Lagerfeld, whose haute bravado is typically unwavering, showed a peculiarly mundane collection for Chanel, one with the ring of chic, if not directional, ready-to-wear.
Though Lagerfeld worked a Space Age-cum-Renaissance motif, the show was really about two things: first, another spectacular set, this time a tented affair with a circular floor that for the finale spun the audience around as the models posed in doorways; second, thigh-high denim boots and matching gauntlets, shown with all kinds of clothes, including a bounty of straightforward tweeds, typically black, white and meaty.
Which is not to suggest a dearth of haute accoutrements. In fact, Lagerfeld decorated everything in sight, from the models’ hair, strewn with pearls, to their feet, their boots occasionally replaced with mary janes teetering atop oddly sculpted heels. Rather, the rtw attitude resulted from the lack of wonderment the clothes elicited. The most impressive of Lagerfeld’s couture efforts have inspired awe over his ability to so brilliantly reinvent the Chanel wheel again and again; here, he merely put a perfectly OK luster on a wheel already parked in the drive.
Lagerfeld swung between linear Sixties shapes and soft volume derived from belled skirts, most of which came heavily embellished. Crisp shifts flaunted elaborate arrangements of banded ribbons; a pair of jacketed, drop-waist dresses flashed monster-stone embroideries, and a brown suit, thick fur outlines. The Renaissance mood derived from some fuller shapes that pouffed about the thighs like a balladeer’s breeches, a flamboyant magenta and embroideries of intricately worked medallions. Evening was something of a pastiche, ranging from black lace ingénue dresses to lavish, jewel-encrusted columns.
As for that demonstrative denim footgear, it made for a wacky touch, and one with serious possibilities, at that. But as the initial amusement faded, Lagerfeld did something almost completely foreign to a Chanel runway — he let his runway affectation du jour distract from the clothes. This did not, however, mask their wearability factor, and, in this season, there’s a lot to be said for that.
Donatella Versace will receive the International Award at the 2018 @cfda awards, which were announced tonight. Tap link in bio for a list of all the nominees and honorees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @rahirezvanistudio )
The 2018 @cfda Awards nominees are out! @virgilabloh for @off____white for is nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year. Tap link in bio for all the nominees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion ( 📷: @simonelezzi)
@chanelofficial is suing high-end vintage retailer @whatgoesaroundnyc for trademark infringement, a move that could cost the retailer millions. The French fashion house claims that it’s not only unintentionally sold counterfeit goods on occasion, but that it’s “gone out of its way to create an association with Chanel,” which does not exist. Read Chanel’s statement on WWD.com #wwdnews (@aitorrosasphoto)
Exclusive: Guillaume Henry has left @ninaricci, the fashion house said on Thursday. “After three years of mutually gratifying creative collaboration, Nina Ricci and Guillaume Henry have together decided that the designer will depart the house after the presentation of the fall-winter 2018-19 collection,” Ricci said in a statement. Get all the details on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“When Bella enters a room all heads turn,” said @peterphilipsmakeup, creative and image director for @diormakeup. Last night, the two celebrated the product launch of Dior’s Lacquer Plump in Los Angeles with other celebs like @parisjackson, @winnieharlow and more. Head to WWD.com to see the rest of the photos from the night (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
“These shirts are an art form, it’s about getting the message out to as many people as you can. It breaks down the pretentiousness of the art gallery,” says Kumasi Sadiki, cofounder of @ebayontheblock, a store that sells merchandise by New York artists who are shifting their attention to clothes as a wearable medium. Pictured here is a design by artist @joegarvey_, one of the first to spearhead this movement. Head to WWD.com to read @mistywhitesidell full story on how their designs have become merch for the underground elite #wwdfashion
@netaporter is dedicating a part of its website – called the Fine Jewelry and Watch Destination – to highlight its high-end jewelry. The hub will feature products on the site, as well as incorporate styling advice and educational content about high-priced jewelry items. Get more details on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories
For “The Cher Show,” an upcoming musical based on @cher’s life and career, @bobmackie is once again collaborating with the singer in designing the costumes. For decades, Mackie has designed glitzy stage costumes and red carpet looks for the 71-year-old Grammy winner. Pictured here is a sketch of some of the pieces in the wardrobe of the musical, which is set to debut in Chicago on June 12 before making its way to Broadway #wwdeye