Haute couture — an identity crisis? Hardly a new notion. But the latest manifestations of it are playing out lethargically in this disaffecting couture season. Even Karl Lagerfeld, whose haute bravado is typically unwavering, showed a peculiarly mundane collection for Chanel, one with the ring of chic, if not directional, ready-to-wear.
Though Lagerfeld worked a Space Age-cum-Renaissance motif, the show was really about two things: first, another spectacular set, this time a tented affair with a circular floor that for the finale spun the audience around as the models posed in doorways; second, thigh-high denim boots and matching gauntlets, shown with all kinds of clothes, including a bounty of straightforward tweeds, typically black, white and meaty.
Which is not to suggest a dearth of haute accoutrements. In fact, Lagerfeld decorated everything in sight, from the models’ hair, strewn with pearls, to their feet, their boots occasionally replaced with mary janes teetering atop oddly sculpted heels. Rather, the rtw attitude resulted from the lack of wonderment the clothes elicited. The most impressive of Lagerfeld’s couture efforts have inspired awe over his ability to so brilliantly reinvent the Chanel wheel again and again; here, he merely put a perfectly OK luster on a wheel already parked in the drive.
Lagerfeld swung between linear Sixties shapes and soft volume derived from belled skirts, most of which came heavily embellished. Crisp shifts flaunted elaborate arrangements of banded ribbons; a pair of jacketed, drop-waist dresses flashed monster-stone embroideries, and a brown suit, thick fur outlines. The Renaissance mood derived from some fuller shapes that pouffed about the thighs like a balladeer’s breeches, a flamboyant magenta and embroideries of intricately worked medallions. Evening was something of a pastiche, ranging from black lace ingénue dresses to lavish, jewel-encrusted columns.
As for that demonstrative denim footgear, it made for a wacky touch, and one with serious possibilities, at that. But as the initial amusement faded, Lagerfeld did something almost completely foreign to a Chanel runway — he let his runway affectation du jour distract from the clothes. This did not, however, mask their wearability factor, and, in this season, there’s a lot to be said for that.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)