NEW YORK — The distance from the runway to the main floor is getting shorter.
For their fall lines that were shown last week, accessories vendors took cues from the Russian looks and use of upholstery fabrics and velvet seen during the designer collections over the last six weeks in New York, Milan and Paris.
Richly hued paisley patterns appeared across categories. Tassels dangled off handbags, as well as earrings and necklaces, and metallic leathers, a strong trend for spring, are continuing in full force for fall.
But trends are not the only thing trickling down onto the main floor. These days, big-name designer firms such as Michael Kors and Calvin Klein are launching better accessories collections and some companies are feeling the effects.
“It’s definitely taken up floor space,” said Robert Rokoff, design director at Maxx, adding that retailers are usually quicker to give well-known brands ample room on the floor.
Helen Welsh, who designs hats, bags and scarves, has been more aggressively marketing her brand to establish a stronger reputation for the consumer.
“Any new brand is competition for me,” she said. “The cream’s going to rise to the top.”
Another key issue causing problems for many firms is the weakness of the dollar against the euro. Most companies manufacture in Asia, but source leathers and other materials from Europe.
For a while, many firms were absorbing the extra cost. But now some are realizing they can’t continue to do so.
Maxx jumped its opening retail price to $250 from $150. Its fall collection revolved around three main colors: black, dark brown and wine. Big hobo silhouettes and structured book-bag styles featured brushed gold hardware. The turn-lock group included small shoulder purses in a rich crushed velvet, much like that used in skirts and coats on the runway.
“Materials have to be more classic, but the hardware or the treatment can be more of the moment,” Rokoff said.
Helen Welsh also increased prices on her handbags up to a maximum of $350 retail; they used to top out at $300. She showed large two-tone shoppers with zippers inspired by Balenciaga’s popular Lariat bag. Upholstery fabric popped up on her signature East-West bag with leather trim and similar patterns appeared on her scarves.
Hermès is launching a Laundromat pop-up shop in NYC - dubbed Hermèsmatic - where customers can bring their old scarves to be dip-dyed by an expert. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @donstahl)