After a four-year hiatus, Miguel Adrover will be back on the New York Fashion Week scene in September when he stages a presentation of his collection for Hess Natur.
This story first appeared in the July 16, 2008 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
But this time, the designer, who once marched a sheep on the runway, is turning his back on the catwalk in favor of something more artistic. Although Adrover was cryptic about the show’s specifics, he said he is trying to lock in a downtown site for Sunday, Sept. 7, at 8 p.m., for what won’t be “a classic show.”
Not that anyone would expect that from a designer who has bucked the idea of run-of-show handouts or even invitations for that matter — unless a dollar bill with a stamped address on it can be considered one.
“I’m a little bored with the catwalk,” Adrover said in an interview. “I would love for people to be surprised when they see it. We plan to show how clothes are tied to creativity, the arts and are close to nature. I never got the chance to do that before.”
His new gig as creative director of Hess Natur, a $100 million, 30-year-old German mail-order business of women’s, men’s and children’s wear rooted in environmentally sound practices, allows for some artistic license. Adrover also has been recording live musicians whose soundtrack will serenade the presentation’s 800 or so guests. Hess Natur is trying to figure out a way to extend its presentation so that “everybody who wants to see it will,” he said.
“It won’t just be for press and buyers,” Adrover said. “There will be an opportunity for others to see it. I’m really tired of all this exclusive VIP. I want people to have the opportunity to see it if they want to. That’s an honest proposition to the public.”
In his studio in Majorca, 10 students have been busy helping Adrover fine-tune the collection. They are a hodgepodge of nationalities from Russia, Egypt, Austria and Spain, among other countries. They have been bunking in his apartment, with his friends or with local families. In exchange for their work, Adrover pays for some of their food. Harsh as this might sound, he said students have a certain oomph that can’t be matched by professionals.
“I have always done that,” Adrover said. “For me, students are the people who have the time and the energy to do this. They work on it without conditions. They have the passion and the energy to get things done. The energy in Majorca is not like the energy in New York, where things are moving very quickly. But we still have a lot to do.”
In the next week alone, Adrover’s work responsibilities will have him flying to Spain, Germany, Spain again and then on to Morocco, where artisans are putting the finishing touches on select pieces.
“It’s going to be a show that embraces the philosophy of the company,” he said. “It’s going to be an artistic expression, but with clothes. It’s going to be really nice to watch.”
Guests need not worry about any actresses stealing the spotlight.
“Celebrities take attention from the real world,” Adrover said.