PARIS -- Not all women want clothes that shout. That's the premise upon which Swiss-based Akris has operated for 62 years. But recently, the firm has concentrated on updating its look and on expanding its presence in the United States. Current accounts include Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, which for fall will move Akris into its own boutique.

In the fall collection, presented at the firm's office in Paris, design director Albert Kriemler focused on beautifully tailored silhouettes: long, shapely jackets over knee-length skirts, chiffon dancing dresses that float just enough, and coats proportioned to balance drama with practicality. And it's all laced with details, from velvet facings on covert to a quilted silk lining in a birdseye coat, that are as subtle as they are rich.

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