NEW YORK — Professing a dislike for trunk shows, Alber Elbaz decided to add an extra dimension to the showing of his fall 2002 collection for Lanvin at Barneys New York recently. So he teamed up with the store’s creative director and...
NEW YORK — Professing a dislike for trunk shows, Alber Elbaz decided to add an extra dimension to the showing of his fall 2002 collection for Lanvin at Barneys New York recently. So he teamed up with the store’s creative director and resident wit, Simon Doonan, to create an in-store show with a little twist that had press and clients in metaphorical stitches.
Reviving the lost art of fashion commentary, Doonan was the snarky announcer for the 19 looks Elbaz sent down the runway. Doonan opened with an introduction to Elbaz, citing his hobbies as "bungee-jumping and needlepoint" and describing his collection as "the antithesis of slutty dressing." A black wool and alpaca suit was described as "very Catherine Deneuve, very expensive and very you." The major selling point of a luxe cape was that it’s always handy, "whether for a hired assassin or a ventriloquist." A look named "Seductrice" prompted the comment, "If you can’t seduce someone in this, you might as well hang up your Blahniks and head for the nearest convent!" And no shopper can be blamed for coveting a pair of over-stitched brown leather gloves crafted with TLC: "French nuns went blind stitching them."
Even if Doonan took some factual license regarding matters of production, the clothes — classic shapes cut in rich fabrics with the occasional raw edge — looked more than luxe enough to delight the audience of about a hundred people, including Lyn Revson and jewelry designer Kazuko. "It was so beautiful," said Revson, who had her eye on two dresses, a backless beige silk number and a black chiffon strapless. "The clothes look soft and comfortable, but still very chic."
A Barneys spokesperson declined to give exact figures, but said so far,fall sales of Lanvin are 14 percent ofprojections. This is Elbaz’s first season with Lanvin as well as Barneys’ first carrying the collection.
The designer has had a somewhat tumultuous fashion past: four houses in five years, including Yves Saint Laurent, Guy Laroche and Krizia Top, following a seven-year stint assisting Geoffrey Beene. He seemed thrilled at the turnout. "I was so nervous when I saw so many empty chairs at 10 to 11 o’ clock," he said of the event, scheduled for 11 a.m.Postshow, Elbaz praised Doonan, whom he has known for years. But then, any designer would love a salesman with the bravado to instruct clients to "throw out all your tarty Spice Girls outfits and load up on Lanvin!" Doonan, for his part, enjoyed injecting new life into a retail tradition. "Fashion’s become too cold," he said. "It’s not enough to see Carmen Kass stomping down the runway to loud music. You can see that on the Metro Channel."
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews