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Another Berlin-based proponent of black, Aleks Kurkowski made a concise case for roughly sophisticated urban gear for men and women in a small-scale show in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin stage area. The designer said she likes to let fabrics speak for themselves, and thus left felted wool raw, just welting the seams or cutting in a notched collar on coats or jackets. Some simply fell straight like a cardigan; others had rounder lines, as in the men’s urban nomad jacket, with an asymmetrical closure and narrow leather belt.

Working in a nearly all-black palette might seem limiting, but Kurkowski used subtle contrasts of matte and shine or heavy- and lightweight fabrics to break the surface — and to underscore what she considers to be the duality that exists in us all.

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