It was an all-black lineup at newcomer Aleks Kurkowski’s presentation, which showed the young designer taking an experimental approach to cut and detail. She said she likes to play with symmetry, which was visible in the off-kilter hemlines on coats and shirtdresses. She also set out to work a “strong military feel,” featuring variations of oversize wool coats for men and women, styled with funnel necks and toughened up with black lace-up boots.


Coats with loose threads along the hems and drop-crotch men’s trousers worn with a bomber jacket added an easy, casual look. 

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