And not because Alexander McQueen blasted forth a stunning new fashion proclamation.
Rather, this was the designer in full couturier mode, offering mesmerizing renditions of his favorite themes in a manner that, though still theatrical, was by his standards sedate. In fact, while once he would have worked the motifs fiercely, here he did so with poetic cadence.
“The more I mature, the less confrontational I become,” he said before the show. “I’ve softened a bit in my old age.” (He’s 37.)
McQueen called his collection “Sarabande,” and thus enlisted the St. Martin in the Fields orchestra, whose female members took the circular stage at the Cirque d’Hiver in gowns of a cloudy shade of gray-lavender. They sat beneath an enormous chandelier, all contributing to the ambience of fragility and decaying elegance.
Then came the clothes, retro in the “Masterpiece Theatre” sense, with references from Goya to “Barry Lyndon,” Bresson to Gigli (McQueen’s long-ago employer).
McQueen’s two major motifs were Edwardian tailoring and major, curvaceous gowns, and in both cases he offered exquisite exaggeration and savvy modernity. Thus, a suit with appliquéd jacket and floor-sweeping skirt could costume a Henry James saga, and a glorious swirl of pink lace took masculine-feminine dressing to a new level of chic.
Similarly, hip padding expanded the hourglass élan of some evening looks while others conformed to the current skinny beauty ideal.
Either way, McQueen lavished on the clothes the incredible artistry he continues to refine. Intricate details of cut and discreet decoration defined the day looks.
For evening, layers of gauze and solid silk trapped silken flower petals; hand-painted birds perched about a molded corset dress; crystal embroidery articulated the curves of a pouf-hemmed gown; a color-removal process created a pale avian pictorial on a tiered black gown. (And, by the way, not a hideous shoe-as-sculpture in sight.)
Everything was either perfect for — or at least could be amended to suit — the dream wedding or other grand event. Save for one stunner, that is: a gown crafted entirely from fresh flowers that left a trail of blossoms in the model’s wake.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)