LONDON — Some designers played it safe this season, relying on signature looks, while others, like Russell Sage, charted new territory. But almost everywhere, color continued to be an important theme.
Elspeth Gibson was true to her whimsical, fit-for-nymphs designs, sending out silver lace dresses, tulle and sequin slips and other diaphanous chiffon creations. Her palette ranged from watery greens and blues to iridescent pinks and bright orange. Antoni & Alison, too, went with what they knew best: T-shirts with slogans. Oversized gray sweatshirts and knitted tops read, "Girl smoking" and "I’m completely bothered and compelled to look different." Well, excu-u-u-se me.
At Boyd, the eveningwear was as enchanting as ever. There were lace flapper dresses, black silk teddies and evening coats with embroidery or multicolored crystals. Russell Sage moved on this season, offering up a more relaxed collection inspired by Titian — and that’s no surprise considering that a major exhibition of the artist’s work opened earlier this week at the National Gallery. Dress shirts, all with handpainted buttons, were loose and worn long. Silk dresses and tops hinted at corsetry but were unstructured, and skirts came in shades of rose and burnt orange.
Sage wasn’t the only designer to play with color this season. Hamish Morrow showed orange-and-gold silk jacquard trousers and black and purple ribbon dresses. Zandra Rhodes strutted her stuff in her new fashion and textile museum, which opens to the public in May. The crowd went wild as Zandra’s girls vamped in colorful, sheer, printed chiffon tops and tunics. Nothing new here, but what sexy girl can resist a little retro Rhodes? Rafael Lopez treaded a little too close to Balenciaga territory with the pieced-together warrior looks that opened his show, but all of those pleated and ruched lamé minidresses, in turquoise, cobalt or amethyst, were perfect for drawing out a girl’s inner glamazon.
Alberta Ferretti's "Rainbow Week" sweaters are back. The designer closed her #MFW show with a few day-of-the-week sweaters, which first debuted on the catwalk last January as part of the pre-fall 2017 collection. #wwdfashion (📷: @delphineachard)