The aroma inside the Woodfire Grill, a light, sweet smell of burning hickory, is as enticing as its name. Owner and executive chef Michael Tuohy specializes in simple, oven-roasted preparations, inspired by his San Francisco roots. A prime example: the wood-roasted Columbia River sturgeon, topped with marinated shiitake mushrooms and served with sides of Wakami seaweed and grilled organic eggplant. Entrees ($18-24) include free-range roast chicken, Niman Ranch pork chop and a hefty Kobe beef steak.

"Tastes," which are appetizer-sized portions of the entrees are also available for $6 to $9. Recommended starters include sautéed oven-roasted soft shell crab, with local heirloom tomatoes and wood oven roasted manilla clams, served with lemon-garlic butter and baked goat cheese.

Raymond Hook, a cheese importer and specialist, collaborated with Tuohy on selecting artisanal cheeses, which change weekly. Featured fromages include Hoch ybrig, handmade aged cow’s milk from Switzerland; Majoreo, an aged goat rubbed with paprika from Spain, and robiola, which is a creamy cow-sheep’s milk from northern Italy. A plate of three costs $9; of five, $14.

The Woodfire Grill, 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road (404) 347-9055, woodfiregrill.com.

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