DALLAS -- Minimalist styles are the hallmark of a newcomer to this city's fashion scene, a 29-year-old Little Rock native who produces crisp, no-fuss sportswear and dresses. "I don't think about my clothes after I put them on, and I don't want my...
DALLAS -- Minimalist styles are the hallmark of a newcomer to this city's fashion scene, a 29-year-old Little Rock native who produces crisp, no-fuss sportswear and dresses. "I don't think about my clothes after I put them on, and I don't want my customers to, either," said Edward Allen. "If you have to fiddle with your dress, then I have not done my job."
Allen started with a spring 1992 collection of eight white cotton broadcloth shirts, which drew $9,000 in orders from such fashion emporiums as The Gazebo and Stanley Korshak.
Cynthia Joiner Denton, sportswear buyer at Stanley Korshak, said Allen's white shirts did so well last year that she reordered them, and she plans to test his new spring pieces as well. "I think he's a promising new designer. He has a very simple look that we sell so well."
Allen skipped fall to organize his finances -- he now has a letter of credit from an Arkansas bank that can be applied against orders to manufacture goods. He reentered the business in October with a 30-piece spring collection composed of straightforward separates, like linen T-shirts and palazzo pants, in a palette of solid white, natural, red and black. Tailored silhouettes also were included, such as a sleeveless jacket with a fitted waist and slight flare over the hips and a short dress with a long, slit overskirt.
For the 20-piece transition collection to be shown this month, Allen will return to his roots with a group of white cotton broadcloth shirts. He's also building his repertoire with a group of jackets, pants and dresses in white pima cotton sateen and voile stripe and silk wool twill colored in slate pastels. Wholesale prices span from $50 to $200.
Allen keeps after his local contractors to produce a high quality product, insisting on such details as surged and top-stitched seams. "I like things very clean and unembellished," he noted, citing Michael Kors and Mark Eisen as inspirations. "It's not the moderate customer who likes what I do."
His business is still in a fledgling stage, supported by money from his family. Allen shares a showroom in room 2F46 of the International Apparel Mart here with Larry Lott, another young sportswear designer. Allen earned a bachelor's degree in fashion design from the University of North Texas in 1987 and worked briefly as a design assistant for Victor Costa.Allen also has made some custom clothing for Kim Dawson, the model agent, for the past five years, and done styling. "He does something with a little bit of difference that is so charming," Dawson said. "He's a very talented young man."
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion