Paris couturiers sure know how to wow the crowds. While some do it with obvious excess, others rely on exotic globe-trotting or simply on a sporty-chic approach.
Rumor had it that members of the Qaddafi family would turn up in the front row of Elie Saab’s couture show on Wednesday. They didn’t make it — and they sure missed a lot: feather sprays, giant flowers and more glitter than the Eiffel Tower flashes once an hour after dark. Saab’s sweeping, high-wattage gowns and party frocks came bejeweled every which way, with chunky gems, beaded fringe and swirls of blinding crystals. And, if the riotous standing ovation he received is any indication, there is a customer for such razzle-dazzle. In fact, one can imagine these clothes appealing to some of the Hollywood B-listers who dress to wow the tabloid crowd. After all, with all Saab’s high-bling embellishment, when the paparazzi flash, his dresses flash right back.
Of course, while Saab concerned himself with Hollywood types, whether they hail from Libya, Los Angeles or elsewhere, Franck Sorbier went on safari with a colorful, upbeat collection of embroidered, full cocktail dresses with petticoats, peplum jackets, ruffled skirts and tribal beaded tops. Extending this theme to include jazz, he embroidered be-bop musicians on a jacket and staged the show to a live saxophonist riffing on “Night in Tunisia.” The collection was a step forward for this client-focused designer, since he took his fairy-tale world of ethereal confections in a new direction.
Dominique Sirop, on the other hand, swung to the sportier side of chic this season and, as a result, his clothes looked younger. In this calm-but-cool collection, jackets were pivotal, most in short, fitted shapes with strong shoulders. Sirop cut them in a variety of silks and wools, often cinching them with sturdy leather belts. They turned up paired with pencil skirts in crisp, sexy suits; in a white tuxedo with brown beading scattered along its sides, or worn over short, swingy, layered chiffon dresses. When Sirop moved into longer chiffon evening gowns, however, the looks lacked his surer, more casual hand. Meanwhile, the fun at the Jean Louis Scherrer show began and ended with a parade of partially constructed muslins that illustrated designer Stephane Rolland’s process. While the Scherrer runway is seldom free of overly complicated shapes and excessive gimmicks, showing these works-in-progress proved this designer does know something about extraordinary tailoring and beautiful clothes.
All along, Rolland pointed to the East with caftans, capes and elaborate embroideries. He made the most of his talents in a sleek white pantsuit, softened by a beautiful gold-embroidered lace cape, which fused his taste for the exotic with a rare degree of understatement.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews