Though designer Anja Gockel said she was channeling the spirit of 12th-century mystic Hildegard von Bingen for fall, the German designer’s collection was certainly not for cloistered types. Body-conscious and overtly feminine throughout, it shimmered in taffeta, satin, panné velvet, platinum lace, and prints bursting with crystals, rose trellises, and stained glass motifs. Highlights included shaped tailored jackets, some with tails, and jewel-studded effects that worked best on short tops and pencil skirts. The former Vivienne Westwood underling might have done better to skip the vivid tartan.


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