Giorgio Armani floated into Paris on a cloud this season — a cloud of silk organdy, that is. His fleet of airy evening dresses made for an ethereal start to the couture season, and — minus Armani’s freakish dragonfly hats — these are just the kind of subtly crafted, unabashedly feminine dresses his clients, and potential fans, crave.
Armani eased up on the constructed look, giving his dresses an ever-so-prettily undone feeling. While this breezy attitude felt fresh, his approach was classical. In periwinkle blue, a sculpted plissé bodice tumbled along into an ultrasoft ballgown. An organdy number in pale pink came whorled with bold rosettes. Others were sprinkled with crystals. And for the individualists among his fans, Armani sent out a swirly printed column under a filmy veil of lace.
As light as the eveningwear was, however, by day the collection was weighty and overwrought — unless the target market is a bombshell arriviste new to Russian riches.
Armani’s Forties-era fascination inspired a slim silhouette with curvy jackets and wrapping tulip skirts. But too often the construction felt cumbersome, with stiff pleated lapels, spliced fabrics and high-standing collars. As for those behemoth collars, they are to the designer’s couture collections what wacky pants are to his ready-to-wear. Oh, for an Armani show without them.
Donatella Versace will receive the International Award at the 2018 @cfda awards, which were announced tonight. Tap link in bio for a list of all the nominees and honorees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @rahirezvanistudio )
The 2018 @cfda Awards nominees are out! @virgilabloh for @off____white for is nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year. Tap link in bio for all the nominees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion ( 📷: @simonelezzi)
@chanelofficial is suing high-end vintage retailer @whatgoesaroundnyc for trademark infringement, a move that could cost the retailer millions. The French fashion house claims that it’s not only unintentionally sold counterfeit goods on occasion, but that it’s “gone out of its way to create an association with Chanel,” which does not exist. Read Chanel’s statement on WWD.com #wwdnews (@aitorrosasphoto)
Exclusive: Guillaume Henry has left @ninaricci, the fashion house said on Thursday. “After three years of mutually gratifying creative collaboration, Nina Ricci and Guillaume Henry have together decided that the designer will depart the house after the presentation of the fall-winter 2018-19 collection,” Ricci said in a statement. Get all the details on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“When Bella enters a room all heads turn,” said @peterphilipsmakeup, creative and image director for @diormakeup. Last night, the two celebrated the product launch of Dior’s Lacquer Plump in Los Angeles with other celebs like @parisjackson, @winnieharlow and more. Head to WWD.com to see the rest of the photos from the night (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
“These shirts are an art form, it’s about getting the message out to as many people as you can. It breaks down the pretentiousness of the art gallery,” says Kumasi Sadiki, cofounder of @ebayontheblock, a store that sells merchandise by New York artists who are shifting their attention to clothes as a wearable medium. Pictured here is a design by artist @joegarvey_, one of the first to spearhead this movement. Head to WWD.com to read @mistywhitesidell full story on how their designs have become merch for the underground elite #wwdfashion
@netaporter is dedicating a part of its website – called the Fine Jewelry and Watch Destination – to highlight its high-end jewelry. The hub will feature products on the site, as well as incorporate styling advice and educational content about high-priced jewelry items. Get more details on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories
For “The Cher Show,” an upcoming musical based on @cher’s life and career, @bobmackie is once again collaborating with the singer in designing the costumes. For decades, Mackie has designed glitzy stage costumes and red carpet looks for the 71-year-old Grammy winner. Pictured here is a sketch of some of the pieces in the wardrobe of the musical, which is set to debut in Chicago on June 12 before making its way to Broadway #wwdeye