MILAN--To trace the roots of some of the big names in Italian fashion, take a look at the history of Callaghan, a knitwear line that has been a launching pad for some of Italy's best-known designers. Celebrating its 30th anniversary this fall, Callaghan is produced by Zamasport, the Novara-based manufacturer that also produces Gucci's women's ready-to-wear. "It all started with the creation of a knit jacquard," explained creative director Marisa Zanetti, who has overseen the line since its debut in 1966. Zamasport, which is owned by Zanetti's sister and her husband, Giuse and Paolo Greppi, directly employs some 120 people, and indirectly, nearly 1,000. It rings up annual sales of $120 million and has showrooms here and in New York. Much of the design, cutting and other production operations are now executed on computers, but things were a little different in 1966. "Things weren't going that well with my father's lingerie factory, and we realized we had to come up with something new," Zanetti explained. "We found a way to use the same machines to produce an apparel collection." That was the beginning of Callaghan--a tiny line of T-shirts, sweaters and shirts. In no time, the collection took off. It was picked up by FTM (Ferrante-Tositi-Monti), one of the key buying offices emerging at the time. "They bought three pieces, and pretty soon nobody could keep them in stock," Zanetti recalled. "The thing that was different was that we had positioned ourselves at a designer level. We were aiming at an elite customer." She added that at the time, Italy's designer business was just starting to take off. "There was Krizia, Missoni and us, and that was about it," she said. In 1968, Walter Albini--the hot Italian designer-of-the-moment, who also worked for Krizia and designed a line called Mr. Fox--was invited to design the collection, launching a strategy Callaghan has followed ever since: putting a name designer behind the label. "I knew I couldn't keep designing it myself, because I wasn't really a designer," said Zanetti, "but I also knew that the only person I wanted to do it was Walter Albini." Albini designed the line for four years, until he left to launch his own collection. The next person to design Callaghan was a youngster named Gianni Versace. "His mother had a boutique in Reggio Calabria and they were one of our clients," said Zanetti. "He was just a kid at the time, with a passion for designing clothes. He loved Callaghan and wanted to design for us. "It was a great success," she continued. "Ironically, at the time, we were better known than he was, and he stayed with us for 14 years--until he had to stop because he had founded his own company." When Versace left in 1986, another emerging designer took over--Romeo Gigli--who gave an entirely different look to the line, Zanetti said. "Our choice has always been to put the designer in the spotlight," she said. "It was a choice that we felt lent prestige to the name." Callaghan is currently designed by Britain's Scott Crolla, who succeeded Gigli in 1994. Not to be left out of the lucrative fragrance field, Callaghan has its own perfume, Lilith, launched in 1994, and produced by Italian perfumer Proteo.
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)