AND NOW, NEW YORK
DESIGNERS TOUT RELAXED CHIC, MAD MIXES AND A LITTLE STEAM AS THE SPRING COLLECTIONS OPEN THIS WEEKEND.

RALPH LAUREN: "Is this too normal for you? [asked about a simple black jersey jumpsuit.] I do normal clothes. I think a lot of women want normal clothes. But I feel that when I do a show, the significance of that can get lost on the press. Cary Grant never won an Academy Award. They used to say he looked like he wasn't acting. But that's the hardest thing--if it doesn't look like you're trying so hard.
"These are right-up-my-alley clothes, classy clothes to buy and wear. It really covers the spectrum, from man-tailored to feminine, and from strong color to all white.
"This collection hasn't had design problems. It's had delivery and organization problems. Now, it's mine again, and retailers have told me, 'Ralph, if you deliver, it will sell."'

ISAAC MIZRAHI: "It's very subtle, this collection, very non-thematic and sophisticated, all about sewing and cut. New York is not a theme park--I want to put that in tiny print on my program notes.
"The shapes are easy, relaxed, not so tailored. I don't want to say the clothes were inspired by insects, but the fabrics and colors are luminous and hard to define, like insect wings. It's not a theme--this isn't my bug collection--but I've been reading Thomas Mann's "Dr. Faustus" and I got obsessed with the section on insects. It influenced me in terms of color and fabric--there's nothing more beautiful than those ephemeral qualities you can't quite define. For evening--a simple siren dress with a lot of bra showing, if people can deal with a siren dress again. I know I can."

OSCAR DE LA RENTA: "People want to dress simply. When you use beautiful fabric, you don't have to torture it. I've been doing very fitted jackets for a long time and now, the shape is a little more relaxed. Jackets are softer. I like the idea of the dress, by itself or with a jacket. Pants are very narrow or fluid. I saw this upholstery print [a Chinoiserie floral] when I was in Paris for the couture. It tailors really well. I'm showing it all matched to make a point. It's young to do it all the way--dress, coat, bag, shoes--otherwise it doesn't work. This makes a statement."

To Read the Full Article
SUBSCRIBE NOW

Tap into our Global Network

Of Industry Leaders and Designers

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus