NEW YORK--Swimwear has had a dry season this year. Makers blamed its poor performance mainly on a lack of inspiring fashions and unseasonably cool spring weather, which led to a glut at retail. But that scenario is not tempering the optimism of swimwear vendors for resort, who are counting on a number of trends to reverse their fortunes. They include: Bright pastels. Separates. Push-up bras. Americana looks, like stars and stripes. Novelty fabrics, such as woven Lycra spandex. A return to glamour, including retro Forties looks. "We are going through a major transition," said Brian Epstein, vice president of merchandising for Jantzen. "We are finding that you have to be all over the board and well-balanced." He noted that one major mistake the company--and the market in general--made was the oversaturation of the push-up bra. Jantzen, which markets such labels as Jantzen Sport, Jantzen Classic and Bolero, pushed the trend with a billboard in Times Square spotlighting its own version called "It Must Be Magic." Last season, it offered the Miracle Bra in 85 percent of its two-piece line. After experiencing lackluster sales, Jantzen has scaled down push-up looks to 40 percent. And, at the suggestion of retailers, the company is whipping up a removable version. "You have to offer the consumer more flexibility," he said. Epstein said Jantzen is using WWD/MAGIC International to boost its Bolero label, a contemporary line that was launched for preview and that is expected to generate $5 million to $6 million this year. It is also showing off its woven Lycra fabric, which is new to the swimwear market and which offers a dry hand. "We are very optimistic about 1996," said Barbara Henriquez, vice president of design at Darling Rio, a contemporary swimwear line."Brights are back, and there's a strong interest in big florals." The company is introducing an illusion bra, which is more sculpted than some other push-up bras in the market. "It's been a rough year, especially in the junior market," said Lara Gamel, designer for Hobie and Surfside, junior divisions of Manhattan Beachwear. "The whole market went very dark because everyone was following sportswear, but I think the swimwear market learned a lesson. It can never deviate from what it knows best." As a result of lackluster sales, Manhattan Beachwear consolidated its three lines into two, scrapping its higher-priced Amica junior contemporary label. The company had a number of suits that wholesaled over $50 last season, but now only sells suits under $50. Looks expected to drive business include crochet fabrics, textured stripes, tie-dyes and popcorn-texture fabrics. Ritchie Swimwear, a Miami-based firm that markets the junior label Pan Dulce, the bridge-price Ritchie's line, and Bacibella, a contemporary label, is counting on animal prints, zebra stripes and dalmatian prints to boost sales. "We are showing a lot of embellishment like gold trim, diamond studs and floral trim at MAGIC," said Jim Snee, regional sales manager for Ritchie. The company now offers its entire two-piece line as separates. Previously, half was separates. "It's been very popular," he said."Everybody's body is different--some have small tops and large bottoms; other consumers have the reverse." Carol Wior Slimsuits is diving into glamour with its resort collection. Its entire line is inspired by celebrities, including Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe and Lana Turner, according to Nancy Cochran, merchandiser. The Marilyn Monroe collection has one-piece suits in white embroidered fabric, wholesaling for about $40. The Elizabeth Taylor group comprises white florals, accented with silver on a blue and green background. Its showroom, at 1411 Broadway here, is also being made over to look like a Forties-style night club, complete with a mural of band leader Harry James and his swing band.THE EXHIBITORS Anne Terrie Designs Authentic Fitness Corp., Designer Swimwear Div. Bendigo International Inc. Butt-Out Denim Wear California Proline California Waves Carol Wior Slimsuit Certified Fashion Guild Inc. Cherry Stix Ltd. Chica Rica Bikini Co. Christina USA Darling Rio Swimwear David People/Aprido Dixie "J" Designs Elle Sports Exelnt Designs Icantoo Sport Ipanema Jantzen Inc. Linda Lundstrom Ltd. Manhattan Beachwear Microwave Swimwear O'Brian Sportswear Pilpel Point Conception Ritchie Swimwear SGS Sports Sasson Licensing Corp. Sensazioni Shok Skiva Int. Solar Tan Thru Sunsets Separates Sur La Cote Swimwear Tahiti Apparel Take Cover Inc. Teensy Weensy USA Ltd., Division of Comme-Ci-Comme- Ca Apparel Ltd. Tidepools Tirabasso Van Buren Inc. Walt Disney ConsumerProducts Why Things Burn
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia