Byline: MARK TOSH / Anne D'Innocenzio / Rosemary Feitelberg
WHAT'S BOOKING NEW YORK--From body worship to retail meccas, plus more than a few tips on how to get dressed, publishers are serving up a number of books on fashion and retailing for summer and fall. Here's a sampling: In "Simple Isn't Easy" (HarperPaperbacks, $5.50), Olivia Goldsmith, author of "First Wives Club" and "Fashionably Late," and Amy Fine Collins, style editor of Harper's Bazaar and contributing editor at Vanity Fair, offer advice on how to cope with the changing fads in fashion. It also teaches the reader how to find her own personal style. This primer also includes tips on how to purge a closet of fashion duds. September publication. "Dress Code: Understanding the Hidden Meanings of Women's Clothes" (Clarkson Potter, $23) examines the psychological implications of clothes--how stiff collars, for example, signify reliability and strength, while loose versions convey a more easy-going attitude. The author also interprets fashion fads and trends and offers advice on what to wear for social occasions and job interviews. Out now. Kelly Klein, author of "Pools," is now examining the human body--clothed and unclothed. In "Underworld" (Alfred A. Knopf, $65), Klein has culled 145 photographs, many of them erotic, taken by such acclaimed photographers as Jacques-Henri Lartigue, Steven Meisel and Ellen von Unwerth from the 1890s to the present. The book includes a note by Klein and an introduction by Anne Rice. October publication. As for retailing, there is "The Nordstrom Way: The Inside Story" (John Wiley & Sons, $24.95) by Robert Spector, a freelance writer, and Patrick D. McCarthy, the retailer's top salesman over the past 20 years. It's the first inside book on the family-run retailer, whose customer service formula has been both admired and feared by its competition. The book is based on interviews with the Nordstrom family, senior executives, directors and salespeople. June publication.
STEPPING OUT EW YORK--Apparel, fragrance and cosmetic companies are storming the streets with ads on buses, billboards and telephone kiosks. "Fashion as a category has never been more bold. The format is, 'Hey guys, here it is-- look at this,"' said Chris Carr, vice president of the Gannett Outdoor Group. "How else can companies make a seasonal statement overnight and get the message out to everybody?" For 1995, Gannett expects outdoor advertising sales for fashion, fragrance and cosmetic companies to grow 20 percent over last year, according to Carr. At TDI, meanwhile, second-half bookings for outdoor advertising for fashion are running 10 percent ahead of last year's $14 million business. And additional growth is expected, according to Jodi Yegelwel, senior vice president of TDI, the largest diversified out-of-home media company in the U.S. "There was a time when out-of-home advertising was made for tobacco and liquor companies," she said. "Now the fashion industry is putting excellent, creative magazine-type advertising on the streets. The perception of the medium is turning around." Men's and women's products each account for 30 percent of the category, and generic campaigns such as those for CK One, Banana Republic and Champion comprise the remaining 40 percent, she said. Yegelwel pointed to Calvin Klein's underwear ads featuring Christy Turlington, DKNY's Hollywood campaign and Banana Republic's skin care shot as lasting images in advertising. The Gap, Barneys and Daffy's have also waged eye-catching campaigns, she said. Gannett's Carr cited ads for Nike, Levi's for Women and CK One as some of the most effective campaigns on the street. With Nike, Reebok and Gilda Marx already in the outdoor advertising game, the category should be the most competitive in the months ahead, he said. The interest in activewear has triggered some beverage makers such as Evian to advertise outdoors, Carr noted. The market for watchmakers is also opening up, he said. According to Yegelwel, in recent years retailers have entered the outdoor market somewhat cautiously. While Barneys, Banana Republic, Brooks Bros., Coach, Daffy's and The Gap are now squaring off in the streets, the category should become more important in the years ahead, she said, adding that cosmetic makers should also tap into the outdoor market. Fragrance ads, which accounted for about $1.5 million of TDI's overall volume, have become a hot category, Yegelwel noted. In the last year, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren have introduced ads for their scents. "First they put all their efforts behind the core of their business. Now they're having so much success with their apparel that they're looking to invest in their fragrances," she said. "If you really like a restaurant for dinner, you might give it a shot for lunch." The focus of outdoor advertising has shifted from billboards to buses because they penetrate urban centers from shopping districts to upscale residential areas, Yegelwel noted. "With buses, advertisers are able to reach people who are too busy to read a magazine," she explained. "Buses are a quick read and they should be visually pleasing. They're very different from a magazine ad that allows you to hold the impression eight inches away from your face to really examine it."RADIO WAVES NEW YORK--Advertisers are tuning into radio with increasing frequency. Through April 30, radio advertising revenue this year increased 16 percent in the New York metropolitan region to $130.1 million and 17.7 percent in the Los Angeles market to $147 million, according to New York Market Radio and the Southern California Broadcasters Association, respectively. On a national and local basis, radio advertising revenue rose 13 percent to $1.8 billion through April in the 100-plus local markets tracked by the Radio Advertising Bureau, an industry group with offices in New York and Dallas. "Our belief is that a number of agencies are incorporating more radio advertising in their media mix than they have in the past," said a Radio Advertising Bureauspokesman. "We're seeing a lot of it on the national spot revenue side, which gained 21 percent through April." He attributed the shift to radio, in part, to increasing costs of TV advertising and the dispersion of TV's audience among a growing number of cable channels. Department stores, among the top five advertising groups, spent $18.2 million on radio ads in January and February, an increase of 1 percent, compared with $18 million spent in the same period a year ago, according to Competitive Media Reporting. In Southern California, radio became a key advertising vehicle for a number of retailers this spring--from Nordstrom to Mervyn's--as business took a promotional turn. "The increases are almost unbelievable," said Gordon Mason, president of the Southern California Broadcasters Association. Mason, noting that radio's rates have not increased from a year ago in the Los Angeles market, attributed the gains to increased radio budgets. "The big guys are clearly coming on with more stations and more expenditures," he said. "One thing I can perceive here is that there are a lot of sales, a lot of one- and two-day sales. They are hitting that very hard."
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty