HUGO TO START CHASING GENERATION X IN OCTOBER

Byline: Melissa Drier

BERLIN--As part of the trend toward youth marketing, Eurocos Cosmetic GmbH will make its bid for the Generation X crowd of 16-to-28-year-old males with the its new Hugo Boss men's fragrance, dubbed Hugo.
It is due to hit worldwide duty-free shops and most European perfumeries and department stores in mid-September, with an American launch planned for October. It will be launched in Italy next spring, a Eurocos spokesman said from company headquarters in Dreieich, Germany.
The advertising support for the fragrance will be irreverent in tone, as indicated by the slogan for the Hugo TV spot--"No stiff suits, no cheesy smiles, no bullshit - it's just a fragrance!"
Eurocos sees Calvin Klein's CK One as Hugo's main competition. But there also is Paco Rabbane's XS, an earlier entry into the Generation XS sweepstakes, with a 1993 introduction.
Eurocos declined to divulge first-year sales projections, but market sources here projected first-year German sales at $14 million (20 million marks) at current exchange rates. The goal, it's been said, is for Hugo to outsell Boss worldwide, and industry sources also said pre-launch testing in both the domestic and American markets met with very promising response.
According to market estimates, Hugo would have to achieve a worldwide volume in excess of $60 million to eclipse the Hugo Boss brand.
The new line consists of an eau de toilette, aftershave, aftershave balm, shower gel, deodorant spray and stick, plus body massage oil--a totally new product for a Hugo Boss collection.
Per unit, Hugo is priced on par with Boss Elements, the Eurocos spokesman said. But ounce for ounce, Hugo will be priced considerably less than the 1994 men's scent.
But Hugo's been enlarged in its product sizing. The eau de toilette is offered in 100-ml. and 150-ml. (3.4 and 5.1-oz., respectively) bottles versus the normal 50-ml. or 100-ml. sizes. The shower gel is packaged in a practical 300-ml. (10-oz.) size.
The price of the the 3.4-oz. eau de toilette is $47 (68 marks) at current exchange rates, and the 5.1-oz. is $62 (89 marks).
When the fragrance is introduced in the U.S., the items will be priced differently, executives noted.
Hugo's approach is young and unorthodox. The clear-glass bottle is functional in design, shaped like a water flask. The advertising, developed by Grey Advertising's Chelsea Partnership division in London, is playfully offbeat.
The image linkage with Hugo Boss's unconventional men's fashion collection, also called Hugo, is expected to help sharpen the new entry's profile and limit the scent's cannibalization of other Boss fragrance businesses.
The face for Hugo's is Vienna born actor-model Werner Schreyer, who has an exclusive two-year contract for both Hugo fashion and fragrance.
Ad spots starring the 25-year-old Schreyer will be shown in the cinemas as well as on TV in Germany. The "bullshit" remark of the Hugo spot may run up against objections from major American networks, a Grey executive admitted, but that should only add to its appeal on cable stations like MTV, he added. Broadcast dates have not yet been determined.
The print campaign will make use of scent strips to get Hugo's message across, and will be featured in magazines read by Hugo's young target customer, such as MAX or Fit for Fun in Germany.
In terms of distribution, however, Eurocos has no plans to market Hugo outside of the normal perfumery--department store channels, where a "larger than usual" supply of Hugo samples will be on hand to introduce the scent.
The American market is "one of the most important factors" in Hugo's global sales plan, a company spokesman said.
With parent Procter & Gamble's acquisition of Giorgio Beverly Hills, Eurocos now has its own sales force for the U.S., which the company said should help boost its performance there.
As for the fragrance formulation, the company said the initial impact of the scent is one of "natural freshness," with overtones of grapefruit, green apple, pine needles, thyme, bergamot, mint, basil and cedar leaves.
The body of the fragrance is pungent with a blend of jasmine, sage, geranium leaves, cloves, lavender, cedar wood and patchouli.

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