MAKERS TAKE A SHINE TO HOLIDAY

Byline: Alice Welsh

NEW YORK--Junior firms are getting ready to put a shine on holiday. According to a spot check of some of the more fashion-forward companies in the market, printed and stretch satin, satin trims, sequins and glitter fabrics are expected to be abundant, and colors will run the gamut from black to jewel tones to dusty pastels.
Based on new trends and increased fall bookings, manufacturers expect a strong holiday season.
Ultra Pink, here, will feature black satin tops--bustiers and vests--with handembroidered Chinese motifs and frog closures, wholesaling for $14; a low-rise cigarette pant and a slim 35-inch skirt with a front slit, for $14 and $13.50, respectively. "We also doing printed satin retro florals on a black background, black crepe trimmed in satin and plaid poly/rayon crepes with black satin trims," said Jean Ward, design director. "The silhouettes are fairly classic with a Fifties inspiration."
Styles include jumpers, wrap skirts, a side-tie wrap vest and a hipster skirt. Prices range from $12 for a short skirt to $26 for a button-front long-sleeve dress.
Ultra Pink expects a 30 percent increase in holiday bookings, due to an increase in its domestic production and the item-driven nature of the deliveries, according to Daniel Dougherty, vice president and director of sales.
Los Angeles junior firm Ripe Clothing is focusing on sequins and satin back crepe in prints and solids and glitter on crepe and polyester spandex.
"The shapes are simple," said Shari Wildstein, designer for the line. "We're doing sheath dresses, tank A-line dresses and long floor-length bias-cut dresses.
"In baby ottoman and polyester double-knit we are featuring cigarette pants and five-pocket jeans. We are doing yarn-dyed striped ribs and combinations of ribs and brush thermal in mock neck cropped tops and twinsets."
The colors are jewel tones mixed with charcoal and heather grays.
Ripe will also offer stretch denim dresses in a dark indigo wash.
"The front is denim with denim-style topstiching and the back is spandex," said Wildstein.
Ady Gluck-Frankel, president and design director of Necessary Objects here, believes in the big mix.
"I like taking fairly masculine silhouettes and adding feminine touches, like nipping in a waist or putting a stretch lace shirt under a suit," she said.
"For holiday, we're continuing with shine--stretch satin, shiny micro fibers, pearlized fabrics, techno fabrics, stretch lace and mesh."
The firm will embellish fitted mesh shirts with maribou feathers around the neck and cuffs.
"The silhouettes are fairly clean which makes it interesting--the look is not too over-accessorized or over-dramatized," said Gluck-Frankel.
She believes slim non-denim jeans, a cropped boxy jacket with two back vents and a single breasted fitted jacket will be strong for holiday.
At Silverwear here, the focus for holiday is French terry cloth with satin trims and accents and textures, said Gail Leida, merchandiser for the line.
"We're mixing the French terry with other textures such as ribs and pointelles," she said.
Styles include cropped hooded jackets wholesaling from $12.50 to $14.50, cropped two-pocket vests for $12 to $14, a workshirt with satin piping for $15.50, drawstring pants at $10.50 and a Henley-style shirt for $14.75.
"The holiday color palette is dusty colors--sand, peach, lavender, moss, yellow and rose or jewel tones--purple, aqua, ruby, star blue and cerise," said Leida.
Leida anticipates an increase in holiday bookings over last year, based on a strong retail performance for spring and summer and larger fall bookings.
At California Gold Rush, an affiliate of Golden Touch Imports here, the shine emphasis is also in the details.
"We're showing a group of two-piece dressings in velvet with gold piping," said Pat Slochower, vice president of California Gold Rush. "It's a column dress with a matching bolero jacket that wholesales for $23."The colors are black, burgundy and navy. We're also doing men's wear stripes in gray, black and navy with white satin accents on collars and cuffs."
Styles include a fitted jacket, a tunic-style jacket, a short cropped jacket, slim pants and trousers. A two-piece outfit wholesales from $19.75 to $25.75.
"I'm feeling quite good about holiday because we are using proven successful reorder bodies in the holiday fabrics and at promotional prices," said Slochower.
Bucking the shine trend is Claire Blaydon, co-owner and designer of Planet Claire here, who believes in matte fabrics for holiday. She's focusing on machine-washable matte velvet in navy, black and hunter green.
"The styling is a cross between Western and flapper looks," said Blaydon. Styles include a short skirt with black shiny fringe on the bottom, wholesaling for $16, vests and bustiers with grosgrain ribbon lace-up detailing for $12 and riding pants with a stretch satin back and contrasting velvet knee patches for $24. Included in the group are white and black stretch lace shirts with Seventies-style collars for $11.

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