PARIS--They weren't completely thrilled by the season, but retailers leaving here Wednesday at the end of the ready-to-wear week were satisfied that they had seen plenty of salable collections. A straw poll of buyers indicated that the favorite collections included Chanel, Emanuel Ungaro, Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and Helmut Lang, in no particular order of preference. And American merchants said they would not lower spending this season, although many conceded that they may end up with fewer units of apparel because of the weak dollar. "The most important thing about this whole season is that there will be clothes in the store that women will want to own," said Joseph Boitano, executive vice president of Bergdorf Goodman. "What is exciting was the movement from Milan, where we saw strict tailoring, to a more soft, feminine feeling in Paris," said Boitano, mentioning the softer jacket at Chanel and softer hips at Mugler. Boitano noted that Vivienne Westwood's use of brocades and printed fabrics gave an additional touch of femininity and elegance to her clothes. Bergdorf is buying Westwood's evening collection for fall and is planning a special store presentation, although a date has not been set. "We were a bit disappointed by the Paris season. It was as if designers tried to develop cutting edge clothes not from the heart but to create publicity," said Kalman Ruttenstein, senior vice president, fashion direction, Bloomingdale's. "There was too much skiwear and road warrior looks. I hate to sound boring, but where is a woman going to wear them?" Ruttenstein liked Ungaro, especially "the beautiful cut and a much lighter feeling." He added, "I was less conscious of all the prints and colors. It's just exactly what women want." He also liked Lagerfeld, Chanel ("a very well-rounded collection") and Mugler, "which was good for show business purposes." Joan Kaner, senior vice president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus, praised Valentino and Dries Van Noten, which she may add for "more modern customers in certain cities." In her view fashion is currently driven by fabrics, "like all the high tech materials, metallics and fake furs." Bonnie Pressman, vice president of Barneys, said that lots of collections her store carries were strong, "especially the younger, emerging designers, with whom we have been doing good business." She said, "It's been a very solid week with lots of newness in design and construction." Helmut Lang., she added, "had an excellent show with great product." Also praised were Van Noten, Martin Margiella and Chanel, which was "perhaps a little un-Karl and quiet," Pressman said. "But I can see us doing a lot of business with this collection." She emphasized that the dollar's poor exchange rate with the French franc wasn't a huge factor for Barneys, as most of the designers they deal with bill in lira or Belgian francs, "like Lang, who is produced in Italy." "Resources like Chanel and YSL are already converted into dollars. Though I suppose for some of the smaller people, we do end up buying less units." Joan Weinstein, owner of Ultimo in Chicago, was especially enthusiastic about the new fabrics seen in the collections, such as the synthetic material used in Gaultier's "scuba" looks. She also raved about Helmut Lang. "Every piece he did was in an interesting fabric done in a special shape," Weinstein observed. "All the pieces can be bought separately. But they work together, so when the customer comes into the store, she can make her own statement."John Galliano was "drama to the nth degree," she said, noting that Ultimo did extremely well with Galliano last season. The dollar's rate had not shifted her buying from France to Italy, where the dollar remains strong. "We have a budget to follow, and it's in dollars," she said. "I am a fashion store. I don't buy in a certain country to get a good deal."
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)