NEW YORK WITH FEW FASHION FIREWORKS AND THE BIG GUNS YET TO COME, IT WAS A SLOW MONDAY UNDER THE TENTS.
Carolina Herrera: Let the trends come and go. There will always be a customer for clothes that are timeless and elegant. But this lady's no shrinking violet. She loves strong color, bold patterns, and at night she even likes to show off a bit. Carolina Herrera understands this woman perfectly, which is exactly why she has such a loyal following. Retailers say her collection sells up a storm. Saks Fifth Avenue, for example, reports a 65 percent spring sell-through, reflecting across-the-board strength in suits, dresses and eveningwear. For fall, Herrera was in a particularly feisty mood, sometimes veering toward overkill. She opened with a group of bright orange shaped dresses and suits, and then moved into softer tones--pale blues and lilacs, in solids and plaids. She tinkered with textures, playing velvet against lodens for some smart suits, and lining corduroy or mohair coats with fake fur. At night, Herrera showed some restraint with a drop-dead black silk and lace dress. But usually she went for high-voltage gowns, pairing bright silk bodices with velvet skirts. She also gave a nod in an unlikely direction--Helmut Lang's. Remember his industrial zippers? Herrera took them, studded them with "diamonds" and used them to close black wool columns for those big events in Cybertown.
Badgley Mischka: Mark Badgley and James Mischka are on the hip track. That's good and bad--good when the clothes were hip, like the black leather coat and skinny pants; bad when the high-priced stylist took over. While some of the looks would be equally at home at The Bowery Bar or Sammy's Roumanian, the runway trappings of spiked hair, Mod makeup, a blaring sound track and a digression into Prada Land were out of sync with what these boys are all about--glamorous evening gowns and beautifully cut suits. And there were plenty of both. The beaded or cut velvet columns were knockouts. And when it came to the pantsuits, some were glamorous enough to wear to your own wedding--at least the second time around.Mark Eisen: It was synthetic hip meets Conservative Chic on the Mark Eisen runway. Minimal Mark knows how to cut a modern suit, and this season it was slim drainpipe pants or an ankle-length skirt paired with a cropped or fitted jacket. The show started out strongly with wool sateen suits, pretty suedette jacket dresses and long cashmere columns. Eisen also showed some good cashmere coats trimmed in fake fur, silk puffer jackets and rich chocolate patent leather car coats. But Eisen went into a synthetic frenzy showing too many shapes in bright nylon sailcloth, leatherette and shiny electric lame.
Yeohlee: This season, cold spareness gives way to a decidedly more sophisticated mood at Yeohlee, where high heels, icy pastels and even bright red made it to her runway. The collection was full of elegant coats, pretty dresses and crisp suits that sometimes were a bit too mumsey. But Yeohlee's amusing black rubber jeans, jumpsuits and car coats made one overlook some of the more dowdy suits. But why bother with those evening gowns that look like they belong in a design student's project rather than a seasoned pro's collection.
Byron Lars: With the clever use of cartoons flashed onto a screen, Lars told an old story with a chic twist: trashy trailer park girl finds a better life in the big city. He began by dolling up his mobile heroine, Trayla Parker, in a fitted quilted satin jacket and slim brown pants. He even provided a villainess, Fiona, who wore a black leather halter complete with bolero and sexy tweed pants. Lars can dish out some good ideas, but sometimes he went overboard, such as when he brought back those horrible gauchos from the Seventies. But there was a double happy ending: Trayla married a rich investment banker, and Byron proved he still has a knack for fun.
Christian Blanken: In his second collection, Christian Blanken struck a refined balance between the minimal and the dramatic. Beautifully contoured evening jackets supplied the drama and turned up over everything from long, Ballet Russe-style tulle skirts to taffeta capri pants. Blanken showed restraint with spare, tailored dresses and svelte pantsuits.
Kenneth Richard: Richard has always loved to play with men's wear concepts, and this season he turned out one of his strongest collections. There were funky Edwardian gents in slim striped suits with sexy, sheer shirts, and some hip fake pony jackets. He went a little haywire with his dreary crushed velvet robes and also with his styling--it tried hard to be on the edge, but just didn't cut it.Elizabeth Fillmore: It was all-out glamour at Elizabeth Fillmore. While there's a touch of Galliano, the designer is creating her own signature. She does it with sculpted deep bronze shimmering gowns with draped necklines or cowl backs, and fluid pantsuits in gold-coated silk chiffon. Boucle jackets were a sporty surprise over her sexy, bare dresses. But the themes wore thin with repetition.
Colin Baer: Little Red Riding Hood came to life at Colin Baer's show at Industria. Models carrying baskets of goodies sashayed down the runway wearing sweet hooded sweaters with flippy corduroy skirts and a great crocodile-embossed trench. Unfortunately, Baer's capes and capelets were straight out of a scary fairy tale.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty