Marni: Perhaps the biggest surprise of the week turned up on the runway at Marni. The fur house delivered a terrific lineup that was everything fur isn't supposed to be--hip, young and spare. While the label itself may be little-known, Marni belongs to Ciwifurs, a third-generation manufacturer that also produces for Fendi. The collection sells in the United States through Revillon, and this season it has captured the interest of key speciality stores, including Janet Brown, which has already placed an order. Ciwifurs is owned by Giovanni Castiglioni and his wife Consuelo, Marni's design director. For fall, she seems to have observed Pradaesque principles of simplicity, coming up with everything from timely knee-length coats to tight motorcycle jackets. Even a suit in sheared mink managed to look great. Castiglioni also paired fur with of-the-moment fabrics like nylon and patent. "We target young, trendy women," she said recently. "They like a clean look, and that's hard to find out there."
Rena Lange: Lange produces the kind of clothes that used to be called ladylike--that is, suits, dresses and coats for the woman who wants to look sophisticated and fashionable without being obvious. This season, the Lange lady will be wearing plenty of fitted suits, often with lingerie touches; little sweaters over soft skirts, and ribbed knits with pristine white collars. At night, she can add a bit of dazzle with rhinestone edging on her jackets and dresses.
Alberta Ferretti: Italians love the mamma. And they've paid tribute to her all week in Milan--or at least, to the way she looked circa 1963. Alberta Ferretti joined the homage with pretty little shifts, boxy tweed suits and some of those knee-length princess coats. And it all looked like the epitome of polite chic. But Ferretti also turned sexy with tight jackets over cigarette pants and bare little black evening dresses.
Cividini: Piero and Miriam Cividini showed plenty of the spunky, playful knits they're known for. But this time out they struck an appealing balance between trendy and timeless, pairing the knits with smart, classic pieces. There were lean sweater jackets or cropped twinsets over gray flannel pants or skirts; melange chenille sweaters with crepe suits, and, on a bolder note, a fake persian lamb jacket worn over skintight leather jeans.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion