NEW YORK FALL WHETHER THE RESULT IS LADYLIKE OR EDGY, DESIGNERS ARE FOCUSING ON CLEAN CUTS FOR FALL.
Joan & David: It seems that just about everybody's riding the Conservative Chic bandwagon. But Joan Helpern believes the need for clean-lined, wearable clothes is no passing fancy. In an informal presentation, Helpern stressed the importance of ease in dressing and of achieving diversity with separates. While she likes the propriety of structured jackets, she opted to show them over soft sweaters and velvet pants rather than as matched suits. She gave a nod to men's wear with natty pinstripes and herringbones, and she infused it all with warmth by working in a palette of rich, but cozy earth tones.
Matsuda: Mitsuhiro Matsuda is in a structured mood for fall. He showed beautifully tailored looks that are right in step with fashion's conservative attitude--lean pantsuits, belted coats and austere jackets over long skirts. But Matsuda still has plenty of edge and showed it with his imaginative use of fabrics. He used plastic-coated cotton for a men's wear vest, boiled wool for a "potholder" jacket and even translucent nylon that looked just like Brillo pads for fitted, striped sweaters.
Zang Toi: Toi wisely switched his focus from last season's sporty mood to a more sophisticated one. He gave a sexy edge to men's wear fabrics, cutting herringbone tweed and glen plaid into good-looking suits with feminine shaped jackets over sexy HotPants and slim pants. Fake fur and velvet trim added luxe to ladylike cardigans and classic peacoats, and underneath, Toi put body-conscious cashmere sweaters in pretty pastels or bright silk taffeta fitted shirts. Jeffrey Costello: Costello has moved on from his disco lamA dresses of last season. For fall, he's inspired by early Eighties ska and punk bands such as Fun Boy 3 and X-Ray Spex. His feminine trash looks were actually quite wearable: a wool double-knit dress with a plunging neckline or a skintight dress of girdle fabric with sheer insets. On a quieter note, there was a smart glen plaid pantsuit and a one-shoulder gray bouclA dress.
Jeannene Booher: The lady lives at Jeannene Booher. The designer sent out one perfectly polite look after another, from a windowpane Jackie O jacket and short bias skirt to a chenille jacket over a crepe dress. Booher also jumped on the fake fur trend, trimming a red pantsuit with fake persian lamb. Peter DeWilde: DeWilde's fabric mixes are his signature. For fall, he used wool, silk brocade and lace for well-cut jackets over lean skirts or trousers, some in pinstriped wool. Although much of the 16-piece collection consisted of reworked looks from past seasons, a scalloped petal dress in copper silk brocade looked fresh and young.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)