FALL'S OPENING ACT

Byline: Melissa S. Drier

BERLIN--The fall '95 ready-to-wear season gets under way with the opening of The Collections Premieren Dusseldorf (CPD) fashion fair in Dusseldorf.
CPD has grown into the largest ready-to-wear trade show in Germany. And this year's event, held Feb. 5-8, promises to be the biggest ever.
Exhibitors numbering 2,254, an increase of more than 10 percent over last year's number of exhibitors, will present their fall/winter 1995/96 collections on the fairgrounds and in the two Dusseldorf Fashion Houses. lIn addition, there are numerous companies exhibiting in private shows around the Kiserwertherstrasse, as well as at the nearby Hilton Hotel.
Halls 3 and 5 have recently been expanded, resulting in a total of 159,000 square meters of exhibition space on the fairgrounds and 50,000 square meters in the Fashion Houses.
Attendance could reach 45,000, up from 42,000 trade visitors last year.
Foreign exhibitors from 39 countries will be in attendance. And this year's national presentations will include group stands from Austria, Bolivia, Great Britain, Greece, Hong Kong, Hungary, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Peru, Poland, Thailand and Turkey.
A planned American group stand for swimwear, innerwear and lingerie manufacturers was canceled at the last moment.
Birgit Hesse of the U.S. Foreign Commercial Service, Dusseldorf, who was instrumental in organizing last September's successful American group stand at Igedo Dessous, said U.S. manufacturers simply didn't have enough time to prepare their lines for the February show. "But we sincerely hope to be back in a group for the new Igedo Dessous dates in August," she said.
Igedo Dessous, a trade show for the intimate apparel, swimwear and hosiery markets, runs parallel to CPD, Feb. 5-7.
Both events are organized by Igedo Internationale Modemesse.
CPD is also expanding its fashion show coverage. This year, the selection is more international.
A runway presentation called European Designers will spotlight the creations of French designer Jérome L'Huillier, Olga T. Reno from Portugal and Uli Schneider from Germany. Other runway presenters include major German fashion makers Escada, Laurel, Mondi, Susanne Wiebe, Marc Cain, Comma, Bogner, Tristano Onofri and, for the first time this season, Chris by Mondi and René Lezard.
A special runway show will feature highlights from Vivienne Westwood's last 12 collections, as well as selections for fall/winter '95-'96. The London designer is currently teaching a fashion seminar at Berlin's Academy of Arts.
But what sets CPD and the Igedo company on a trendy new path is the "In Progress" house and trance party, with a Fashion Subversives Show, to be held Friday evening, Feb. 3, at Club Stahlwerks.
The Igedo organization is using this first clubwear event to introduce a new generation of fashion makers to the wider retail trade.
Youth trends in general are taking on a starring role at CPD, and fashion Halls 9 and 10 will feature important newcomers to the Dusseldorf fair such as S. Oliver, Street One and Vanilla. (See related story, page 20.)
And in the avant-garde and designer sector, centered in the Dusseldorf Gallery, key first-time exhibitors include Lolita Lempicka, Nina Ricci and Hanae Mori.
Fashion's ecological aspects are also coming to the forefront in the new Fashion & Ecology section to be introduced this season in Hall 3. More than 40 companies--predominantly makers of environmentally conscious apparel, as well as suppliers of raw materials and service companies--will participate.
In addition, a Fashion & Ecology Symposium focusing on the risks and opportunities of this growing apparel sector will be held Feb. 7, followed by a fashion show organized by the environmentally friendly German catalog house Quelle. (See related story, page 20.)
Country and traditional folkloric styles from seven countries will be presented in the Country Life sector, now the largest international display of country fashion.
The intimate apparel and swimwear show, Igedo Dessous/Igedo Beach, and the recently incorporated men's section, Body & Man, will feature more than 150 exhibitors and is expected to attract more than 10,000 buyers.
Also during CPD on Feb. 5-6, Salon Schuh Aktuell will present footwear trends for fall-winter '95-'96 on the second floor of Hall 6.

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