Yves leads the Fit Parade, while Valentino laps up luxury.
LOUIS FERAUD: A GONDOLA RIDE It was a trip down the Grand Canal, as Louis Feraud looked to Venice for inspiration. Jeweled masks, Fortuny pleats, panne velvets and the dark, festive colors of a Venetian ball set the tone. The collection was strongest when it stayed simple, as in a short, kicky transparent chiffon dress worn over a lace teddy or a high-waisted, floor-length black velvet sheath with a beaded white bodice. But the dresses with bunches of jeweled fruit at the back would have been too much even at Carnival.
VALENTINO: IT'S TOO DARN HAUTE Usually Valentino is the richest and sleekest designer in Paris, but this season he's just the richest. Not even his front row of admiring Ladies really understood where the Chic was headed with this overcomplicated collection. Of course, when Val kept it simple, as he did in the evening section, he was superb. There were two or three mousseline dresses that were among the most beautiful in Paris. And his simple A-line suits had all the elegance and verve that have made Valentino one of the world's most successful designers. As for the rest, the finest of details overwhelmed the collection. There was too much of everything: paillettes, sequins, faux fur everywhere, even on top of boots. One or two collars weren't good enough--there had to be three, and so much makeup the girls looked like zombies. But the biggest misstep was Valentino's unfathomable fascination with camouflage: He used it on mohair, evening dresses, suits, pantsuits, day dresses, gloves and hats. It made even the most dedicated soldier want to desert the fashion trenches.
YVES SAINT LAURENT: BACK IN THE GROOVE Shape is the news from Paris, and that odd couple of La Mode--Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent--is leading the charge. In the collection he presented Wednesday morning, Saint Laurent put his imprimatur on the key trend this season: the fitted torso. A woman's waist is once again an object of obsession in the fashion world. And no more so than in this collection, which was a beautiful reminder of what the couture is all about--clothes that are supposed to make women chic. The collection was sent down the runway to the music of Berlioz and Wagner (as arranged by Pierre BergÄ) and was amazingly focused: tight, feminine silhouettes; smart, elegant suits, and the kind of refined evening dresses found only in the couture. So what if the copyists won't be burning up the wires? (And just in case, the house printed a warning against plagiarism on the invitations.) But that's not what Paris is about this season. The days of kinetic hipness are over: It's all about the slow fashion statement. Saint Laurent opened the show with a series of sassy minidresses, some with extra-wide belts slung on the hips, wacky hats and thigh boots so high they looked like tights. His classic suit jackets, which were nipped at the waist and trim at the shoulders, underlined the decline of the men's wear influence this season. "Bring on the feminine figure," Saint Laurent seemed to be saying. Unlike other couturiers, Yves's skirt hemlines were bobbing up and down like the troubled dollar. He likes to go back and forth to satisfy his clients--with everything from knee-skimming skirts and short bell shapes to long columns. But he also gave his audience a jolt, which he hasn't done in a long time, when he sent out three smashing black tuxedo suits with the shortest, shortest skirts imaginable. They brought the house down. For evening, Saint Laurent headed East. He showed the most ravishing evening coats in electric colors fit for the chicest Mandarin empress. They were worn over straight satin or velvet gowns--simple, yet divine. At the finale, Yves, beefier but steadier than ever, lapped up the standing ovation. For the first time in years, it seems he's in love with fashion again.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty