Fit was the rage of the Paris couture, and now New York loves it, too. Even Calvin Klein does--and a year ago he was loathe to talk about glamour because, he said then, the word "sounds so Eighties."
Now, Calvin's possessed with all things glamourous, and his resort collection couldn't have been sexier. Hobbling in on crutches (he sprained his ankle Monday afternoon) to take his seat at an informal presentation, he pointed out, "I'm doing red lips for the first time in 25 years." Once again, the heart of Calvin's collection is the slip, cut as beautifully as ever. But for resort, it's always on the bias, darted and seamed for plenty of fit. He does it in super-sensuous fabrics--sheer mousseline, airy wool crepe knit, cut velvet on chiffon, lacquered rayon satin. Klein's new kick is the half-slip, worn with gauzy, featherweight knit cashmere vests and shirts. He showed mostly white, ivory, ink and black, but may have offered a glimpse of things to come for spring with two bright red swimsuits.
As for length--need you ask? "From the last show," Calvin told his guests, "you know where I stand."

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