NEW YORK
THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS RULED AT MANOLO, WHILE SEXY SUITS STARRED AT MICHAEL KORS.

Michael Kors: Everyone was hoping Michael Kors would continue on the upward path he took with his successful fall collection. And, indeed, his Friday show began with great promise. He sent out sexy suits with intricate seaming in synthetic fabrics like twill, satin and piqué that made them even curvier. Things heated up when he paired pinstripe pants with a hip, white leather jacket. Like many designers this season, Kors is mad for dresses. There were sexy georgette jersey wraps, sporty polo-collar numbers, and enough one-shoulder looks to fill a toga party. And, oh yes, the belted sweater and satin skirt were here, too, in a mix of pretty pastels. But the show began to lose some of its sizzle with a parade of frankly boring separates and dowdy New-Length skirts that were straight from Stepford Suburbia.

Manolo: Manolo showed there's more than one way to cut a sexy little black dress. There were at least 20 knockouts, each one imaginatively draped, angled and cut. And when it wasn't black, Manolo played with celadon and lavender. He sent out a killer halter jumpsuit that dipped dangerously low in the back. But rarely has showing so much skin been less vulgar. Unfortunately, the models had a lot of ground to cover in the spacious Grand Lodge Room of Masonic Hall, which made the show run too long.

Fashion Scoop:
lYou may have thought it was a mistake or a substitution when your program read "Dorothy" but the model on the runway was clearly Kristen McMenamy. It's no mistake, said the red-headed model, and it's no reference to Oz either.
"It started out as a joke, but now I'm doing it seriously just for the shows," she said backstage after the Calvin Klein show Friday. "There are all these models like Chrystelle, Kirsten, Christy, Kirsty. When I changed my hair color, I changed my name. And my mother's maiden name is Donoghue, so I'm keeping the Irish thing--Dorothy Donoghue."

Zoran: Considering that it was the end of an exhausting fashion week, a good-sized crowd showed up for Zoran's Friday evening show. But after all, he was offering dinner along with the clothes. Zoran's commitment to impeccably simple shapes in luxurious fabrics and a refined palette continues. And that is exactly what the Zoran devotees hanker for. This season, they can feast on an ankle-length white monk's coat over black trousers, or linen dusters worn with linen tank tops and iridescent silk chiffon pants. For those who think plain old chinos are too basic, Zoran does his in khaki silk.

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