NEW YORK
NO, IT'S NOT ALL RETRO FOR SPRING. THERE'S ALSO COLOR, SHINE AND EVEN TRUE ROMANCE.

Michael Leva: It was tea and civility Fifties-style at the SoHo loft-cum-retro furniture shop where Michael Leva presented his collection. Models lounged on curvy couches wearing floating crinoline dresses, sherbet-colored seersucker suits and citrus-striped, silk and cotton shirtwaist dresses. Leva's sequined net tutus lent just the right amount of whimsy to a concise and very wearable collection.

Robert Danes: Inspired by Franco Zeffirelli's passionate "Romeo and Juliet," Robert Danes sent out steamy, high-exposure dresses and gowns with gossamer cutouts and bare backs. Though beautiful, these numbers are only for the most heavenly bodies. Apart from the dresses, Danes seemed stalled by a shortage of ideas. He threw in some homegrown floral-print satins, which looked out of place. What happened to the stunning suits and evening separates of seasons past?

Byron Lars: After canceling his Bryant Park presentation because of late fabric deliveries, Lars gave a lackluster presentation in his 57th Street showroom. Although there were some winners--the sage sequined blouse and pencil pants and some sexy satin pieces--haven't we seen those wrap dresses in previous seasons? We missed the spirit and humor that usually distinguishes Lars from the rest of the fashion crowd.

John Scher: Scher spanned the decades with enough disco to fill all of Studio 54, then sent out Sixties tie-dye looks and prim Jackie O jacket dresses, Fifties shirtdresses in chocolate charmeuse and Forties-style suits in sexy apricot silk satin. All in all, Scher seemed to go overboard on retro. And overboard is the last thing anyone needed in that hot, street-level store space, where everyone sat crushed together on the floor.

Lawrence Scott: This was Scott's first show, but he had his support system firmly in place. Sitting in the front row were Christian Francis Roth, Byron Lars and Molly Ringwald, cheering his collection of all-American designs. Scott, a farm boy at heart, uses sackcloth, gingham and daisies to give slips, bra tops and HotPants some fresh country air. But his gangster suits, well-cut sequin pieces and dresses printed with images of Charlie Parker could teach a city boy a thing or two.

To Read the Full Article
SUBSCRIBE NOW

Tap into our Global Network

Of Industry Leaders and Designers

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus