Byline: Margaret Mazzaraco

NEW YORK--Fabrics with metallic accents, supple textures and knits with texture and stretch were some of the ideas getting buyer attention as the International Fashion Fabric Exhibition opened here Tuesday.
The three-day show--with an expanded roster of exhibitors and a new Trimmings Marketplace--pulled a strong first-day crowd, scouting for fall 1995 fabrics. They came with definite ideas in mind, but appeared eager to start sampling.
"I usually do Premiere Vision only, and it's the first time I'm here," said Janet Howard, designer of Misc., contemporary knitwear manufacturer in Los Angeles. "I'm looking for contemporary stuff that's not all over the market. I only do stretch and am looking for shiny matte or wovens with stretch."
Howard found some knits she liked at Deveaux SA, of Lyon, France. "There's a rust cord stretch velvet and a distress-looking print in stretch - but we'll have to talk price," she said. Deveaux also presented plaids with metallic yarn accents and structured wovens with treatments that look like embroidery.
Julianne Ferris, owner of Star Cashmere Inc., a cashmere apparel manufacturer in Hyattesville, Md., was seeking trim to incorporate with cashmere wraps and other apparel. Ferris was looking at M&J Trimmings' offerings in the new Trimmings Marketplace, particularly new rayon and cotton textural fringe with strands of chenille and bouclé yarn.
Reflecting the international flavor of the crowd was Anastasia Yialama, buyer for Lola SA, moderate apparel manufacturer in Athens, Greece. Yialama was visiting the show with her colleagues, looking for laces and polyester fabrics for shirts.
The Larkin Group, show producer, said first-day attendance tallied 3,600 at 2:30 p.m. and, based on that, it expects the opening day to be 20 percent ahead of the March opening. The exhibition has grown to 380 exhibitors, 70 more than the March show, and continues to attract major U.S. firms. For this sixth edition, Milliken, Lida Inc. and Majestic Mills joined IFFE'S roster.
"Traffic has been very heavy," commented Otto Schmid, sales director of synthetic fabrics at Milliken. "Two of the hottest things are our blended textural knits in polyester and rayon and in polyester and cotton."
The firm also presented such knits as a flame-resistant children's sleepwear group of pointelle and quilt-like patterns.
"It's our first time here, and this a great show," noted Ed Stoler, national sales manager of Lida Inc., a vertically integrated converter that specializes in stretch knits. "There's a strong turnout with a lot of buyers and exhibitors. Most of the buyers are from the U. S. and there are a few Canadians."
Stoler noted that velvets, textured surfaces like jacquards and cut velvets were sampling well. At Texfi Blends, Gerry Rubinfeld, executive vice president, said the firm had a strong reaction to a polyester fleece. Also new were polyester and rayon plaids with a warm hand, and textured fancies, including a group it calls Couture, in polyester and rayon.
At Miroglio U.S.A., the U.S. arm of Miroglio, Alba, Italy, chine-type weaves, especially a cord that was the number one seller at Premiere Vision, were doing well, according to Jacqueline Ortiz, sales representative. Made of high-twist rayon and polyester, the cord was selling in harvest colors of greens, plums and browns.
At Liberty of London, Robert F. Vergata, president of the U.S. division, noted there was a lot of interest in the cotton and wool Jubilee brand twill in small florals.
"It's a new 56-to-57-inch-wide cloth," said Vergata, noting the firm was getting a lot of interest in wider widths. He added that Liberty was handicapped when it was limited to 36-inch wide fabrics. At Arno Salm, hot sellers were men's wear rayon, wool and spandex patterns in grays and browns for pants, vest and skirts, said Hank Salm, partner. "The show is very good. People are seriously sampling this new stuff because of the new fit in fashion."

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